TheRailwire
General Discussion => Weathering, Detailing, and Scratchbuilding => Topic started by: Dwight in Toronto on July 01, 2024, 04:43:39 PM
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Having hung out at TRW for a couple of years now, I found that I was getting increasingly inspired and encouraged by watching talented craftsmen create remarkable models from raw materials.
Over the years, I’ve done some freight car mods, kit-bash add-ons, loco detailing etc, but I had never tackled the scratch build of a loco shell. It was time to give it a shot.
A few months ago, I ordered a few things from Plaza Japan, and while browsing their site, I came across a small Kato 2-axle powered chassis (#11-108, used in their Steeple Cab series). I had no idea what I’d use it for, but at only $19 I couldn’t resist:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724154902.jpeg)
When the urge to scratch up something took hold, I thought this little chassis would serve as a good introductory base upon which to start building. I also thought that a small box cab loco would be a relatively simple structure on which to cut my teeth. Here’s a small sample of models that I found online, from which I scoured an array of design concepts and ideas:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724160159.png)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724160134.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724160115.jpeg)
My first step was to equip the chassis with an ESU LokPilot decoder (no sound on this model!).
This included fabrication of a small pc board to serve as an anchor point for the track and motor wires, as well as three 8K ohm resistors for LED’s:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724154938.jpeg)
A trip to my LHS equipped me with a variety of Evergreen styrene. After a few hastily-drawn plans and sketches, I started by fabricating a base “foundation” using .04” styrene - ie - a substructure upon which to glue the more refined cab walls and other features:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155111.jpeg)
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A few months ago, I ordered a few things from Plaza Japan, and while browsing their site, I came across a small Kato 4-axle powered chassis (#11-108, used in their Steeple Cab series). I had no idea what I’d use it for, but at only $19 I couldn’t resist:
Yes, those "critters" are very handy for all sorts of bashes. Especially the new version with equalized suspension and coreless motor. They are also quite a bargain for what you get. @Chris333 likes them. They are only 2-axle (4 wheels), not 4-axle. :D
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I laid out the four walls on a single piece of .02” styrene, and hand-scribed the representation of board-&-batten siding. I also tried a few techniques to simulate wood grain, and found that a combination of wire brushes and sand papers did a pretty good job.
After marking up window and door locations, I started to cut out the openings:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155016.jpeg)
I do not have 3D print capability, nor any automated cutter device … solely a variety of Xacto blades, Dremel kit, jewellers files, miniature belt sander, pin vice and the like. For the openings, I found that drilling the corners with a #78 bit in the pin vice provided handy access points in which to introduce the knife blades. Slow, steady blade work, followed by careful filing, did a fairly good job of squaring up corners etc.
Throughout this entire build thread, I implore my fellow enthusiasts to PLEASE chime in with faster/easier/more accurate/more efficient ways of doing the tasks and steps that I tackled.
This entire project is an exercise in bringing our motto to bear … “Better modeling through peer pressure” !
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Oddly I never bought one of those 4 wheel chassis the whole time I was in N scale until basically right before they changed the design. And I bought it just to see if it would fit a body I made. The new version of the chassis shown here is way better.
But lets talk about that ConCor ruler :)
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Chris333 - lol - what’s wrong with my ConCor ruler? (50 cents train show find!).
I finished up the cutouts for windows and doors, and then had a shot at making the doors and window frames out of .01” styrene. Since I wanted to spray dullcote BEFORE the window glazing went in, I had to first airbrush the cab walls and then apply a few decals (the road number is my birthday - 2356 … Feb 3 1956). I also had a shot at fabricating the front headlight housing, as well as an engine radiator shroud, complete with fine-mesh metal grill, and two air grates for mounting into the side walls:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155045.jpeg)
Not knowing any better, here’s a demonstration of how I did the window frames. I pre-fabbed the required number of slightly over-sized “L” segments, then fine-tuned them, simply by progressively nipping/filing/sanding & trying until they snugged in with a friction-fit. When all was good, a drop of watery Testors adhesive did its job through capillary action:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155141.jpeg)
Again, I had no preconceived notions about how best to make window frames and doors. I hope the masters amongst us will advise on alternate/better approaches.
Glazing.
I was worried that the adhesive used to affix clear styrene to the backs of the window frames might cause paint-bleed staining. As an experiment, I made the window frames extend very slightly beyond the interior surface of the cab walls, such that the glazing, when glued, was actually laying on a bit of a “standoff”, slightly distant to/set back from, the interior wall surface.
I also glued in narrow .01” ‘shims’ between each window to help ensure that the glazing was set slightly back from the inside wall surface. I’ve tried to convey this methodology with the following pic:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155205.jpeg)
I hope this makes some sense, because it definitely worked … there was no paint bleed whatsoever. Feedback time … I’d love to hear from others about window, glazing, and door fabrication techniques.
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A big step was separating the four wall segments, and aligning/affixing them with adhesive on the supportive ‘foundation’ piece. A little bit of Tamiya white putty helped to ensure seamless joints at the four corners (I quickly learned how nice this putty is to use, if one first dilutes it either with Testors adhesive, or Mr.Hobby paint thinner).
However, the main point of the following pic is to demonstrate how I tackled the fabrication of the curved rooftop. I first made a paper template, then cut out the roof using .02” styrene. But how to form the curve? Some time ago, many of us watched a video where someone made a highway bus from pvc plastic pipe. I remember how this fellow used a Bic lighter to gently sag-&-bend various shapes. So, I attached the styrene blank to an old pill bottle with double sided tape, and proceeded to heat-&-press the soft plastic to conform to the pill bottle curve:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155228.jpeg)
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A little bit of followup filing and sanding resulted in a pretty good fit.
My next goal was to make the roof look like old oak or teak planks. I happened to have some very thin real wood veneer, that was originally wrapped around a fine cigar in a stoppered glass tube … my long-departed dad gave it to me some 20 years ago (after he had burned the cigar). Aside - anyone know why cigars are wrapped in wood veneer, and what kind of wood it might be?
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155256.jpeg)
Again, please comment on alternative ways of heat-forming styrene plastic! Heat gun? Low temp oven? I’m sure there are better ways than what I did here!
I scored the veneer to simulate wood planks, then attached it to the styrene substrate with double sided tape:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155342.jpeg)
A view of the rear - note the backup lamp housing formed from a very short piece of brass tube:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155409.jpeg)
My next challenge was how to attach the roof to the cab body, but retain the ability to remove it?
I need to be able to remove the roof so as to facilitate access to the cab interior, in order to be able to properly position the LED lighting (this will become clearer near the end of the build).
I ended up creating two styrene tabs, one on each upper edge of the cab walls, and two corresponding slot assemblies glued to the underside of the roof (tabs & slots indicated with red arrows):
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155439.jpeg)
The roof is simply dropped in place:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155503.jpeg)
Then pushed rearward until the stops bottom-out:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155526.jpeg)
So far, so good, I think!
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Next, I thought it was time to flesh out a subframe around the lower half of the loco chassis.
Here I used .04” strips, and then some Evergreen channel for the lowermost skirt:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155554.jpeg)
Here’s how the cab fits over the chassis and snugs up to the subframe. Note that I’ve had a shot at fabricating a few roof details, and simply plopped them in place for a quick look-see:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155619.jpeg)
I had a bit of fun with all these bits and pieces. The star of the show was my cordless drill, which I adapted as a poor-man’s lathe. First, I had a go at shaping some styrene rod into compressed air cylinders, an exhaust pipe, and a small horn. Encouraged by this outcome, I likewise used the drill to form a bell from some small brass tube. A few jewellers files and sanding sticks did a pretty good job, but I’d love some input on alternative approaches!
I spent a bit of time cutting out rectangular openings in the subframe, and then fitting suspension hardware where the axles are located. Also cobbled together some compressed air reservoirs and hung them on the centre portion of the subframe. This was followed by a quick spray of Mr. Hobby black:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155649.jpeg)
I aged the wood on the roof with a thin wash of white and gray paint, followed by light sanding.
I also painted a thin wash of aluminum on some of the roof components, so as to give them a bit more of a metalized/steel look, and added brass strapping to anchor the exhaust pipe to the roof.
I know, I know - brass would never have been used … it would have been steel strapping. But I’m really liking the look of real brass alongside the lavender paint job, so I’ve decided that railings etc are not going to be painted - they will all remain pure brass.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155710.jpeg)
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Think its an unwritten rule that everyone's first Scratch bash is a 23 tonner/Steam dummy inspired boxcab.
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That's pretty darn impressive Dwight, and also creative. I like your window frame method, roof retaining tabs, and heat forming the roof. You keep asking for better methods of what you are doing, but your methods are quite good already. The window frames method is new to me, and I like it. Easy and simple.
Your model looks very good, even a bit whimsical!
The other comment I have is that I'm not a fan of seeing 1:1 scale wood(grain) used to represent 1:160 scale wood. The other thing is that as I see it, I would have stopped on painted plastic roof. In real life roof needs to be waterproof. I don't think you would see a natural color wood used for a vehicle roof. It would have likely been either sealed with tar, tar paper, or covered with something solid. If you left the roof as (painted) bare plastic would likely be a better representation of 1:1 roof. Of course someone will post a photo of a 1:1 vehicle with bare wood roof! :D
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Thanks guys. I chuckled at how a box cab seems to be everyone’s first scratch attempt … makes sense, since it’s just so nice and ‘boxy’! And Peter, I appreciate the praise, and I particularly welcome the commentary regarding prototypical practice.
I started out with the intention of replicating a sheet metal roof. I even went so far as to purchase one of those spiked wheel tools from a local fabric store to try impressing a rivet pattern in the .01” styrene (they had a $5 tool, and a $22 version - I opted for the pricey one). I could not get an acceptable simulation of rivets, so decided to try the more offbeat wooden roof.
Hmmm, I was just thinking - I should have taken pics of the things I tried that did NOT work, and posted them as well. After all, my prime objective in sharing the build here on TRW is to emphasize new learning and draw out better ways of doing things. Next time will feature failures as well!
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Diverted my attention to beefing up the front end of the box cab.
Added a bit of styrene strip and channel around the Kato horizontal grid bars, which included a narrow shelf effect right across the lowermost front edge. I don’t know why, but a lot of the sample models I studied have this just-above-the-rails cow-catcher sort of thingy.
I also added the same wooden plank effect for the flooring of the front “porch”, as was used on the roof:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155807.jpeg)
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Added a front guard-rail using .02” brass wire, and an “old hand” taking a well-earned break to have a bit of a rest and a wee look around.
Also added a few hand grabs using .012” brass wire:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155832.jpeg)
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DUDE! This is sick. I love it!
Especially that roof forming trick. Brilliant.
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More added details look great, but the 0.020" handrails?
I thought after your initial attempt of using such thick rod for N scale handrails, then finding that much thinner rods are readily available, you swore off ever using 0.020" for handrails. That is 3.1" diameter in 1:1! :D The grabs on the corners of the cab look closer to scale.
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Thanks Ed.
And thank you Pete, for applying the pressure! I wanted the guard rails to look beefier than the hand grabs, so in this case I opted for the thicker brass wire. If I’d have had a slightly thinner wire on-hand, I would have used it.
But yes, that is precisely the sort of feedback that I welcome. I’d like to think that, at some future date, some other first-time scratcher will stumble upon this topic and realize that .02” brass wire is comparable to 3” pipe IRL. Good stuff!
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I don't have much to add other than you have done a fantastic job!
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Scottl - thanks so much, man … appreciated!
Since this entire build was a ‘learning experiment’ on my part, I decided to have a shot at fabricating a brass ladder leading up to the roof:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155903.jpeg)
For this, I again used the .012” brass wire. I wasn’t sure how to go about it, so I tried putting a piece of 3M clear double sided tape on a smooth glass work surface. I then cut and formed the two uprights, pressed them face down onto the tape, and then nipped off 8 pieces for the rungs.
The top, middle and bottom rungs were lightly soldered into place (what fun THAT was!). The remaining rungs were affixed with tiny drops of CA.
I have to mention here just how invaluable a digital caliper is. The utility, versatility and overall modelling benefits of these devices was being heartily endorsed by a couple of TRW fellows several weeks ago, so I picked one up (less than $30 Cdn at a local electronics/specialty retailer). I am SO thankful that I trusted their sage advice. This tool has been invaluable throughout almost every aspect of this project, and I strongly echo the recommendations to add one of these to your workbench.
Twenty four hours later I gently pried the ladder off the tape, and found that some of the CA had ‘spiderwebbed’ as a thin film across the inside corners of several rungs. Careful chipping and scraping with a long-pointed Xacto blade eventually cleaned up the worst of it, but a few remnants remain in a few spots … I forced myself to stop while I was ahead.
The ladder has a slight outward bow, and at some point I’ll probably try pressing it inward, but for now I deem it good enough. The grab bars on the roof were the finishing touch on this segment.
I edited this segment to point out that I decided to add a second brass lamp housing to the rear of the model. The upper light will be a red LED serving as a marker lamp; the lower unit will be the reversing headlight.
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That is some prerry fancy soldering/gluing Dwight. Are you sure you're a noob?!
Also, I believe you have a caliper. Micrometer is not very useful for our hobby use.
(https://www.mechanicalmeasuring.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/micrometer-screw-gauge-parts-and-Function-768x561.jpg)
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Thanks Peter - right you are.
I changed ‘micrometer’ to ‘caliper’. I also changed the earlier error where I referred to the Kato chassis as being 4-axle.
You question my noob-ness … perhaps my careless mistakes are evidence enough!
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I mentioned earlier that I needed to be able to remove the roof to facilitate access to the LED’s.
Like many modellers, I’ve never liked the idea of permanently affixing LED’s within the shell, with their wires being ‘tethered’ to the chassis-mounted decoder. Some of our brethren have devised admirable phosphor/bronze ‘flex arms’ that press against copper contact pads; others use tiny plugs & sockets, and there are undoubtedly other approaches (which would be great to hear about).
Not long ago, there was a topic covering roll-your-own streetcars wherein bbunge described how he uses styrene tube as an LED holder. I decided to use his technique on the box cab.
As shown in the pic, this simply involved solvent-gluing a short length of styrene tube on the inside wall of the shell, precisely behind the exterior headlamp location. I had blackened the tube with a Sharpie, and then reinforced around the seam with diluted Tamiya putty. You can see a 0402 LED being inserted into the front “retainer tube” with tweezers:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-020724164636.jpeg)
Here’s how the LED’s ended up - an 0402 warm white in the front lamp, an 0603 red LED in the rear/upper retainer tube (as a marker lamp), and another 0402 white in the rear/lower retainer tube that illuminates in reverse. I used a small dab of sticky-tac to help keep the LED’s anchored within their retainer tubes:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-020724164659.jpeg)
Should I ever need to remove the shell to get at the decoder or service the chassis, it’s simply a matter of sliding off the roof, picking out the sticky-tac ‘plugs’, and slipping the LED’s out of their retaining tubes.
Speaking of sticky-tac, I use that @#%& for everything! In this project alone, its holding the LokPilot decoder and the pc board snug against the chassis. It’s also being used as “cable management”, to keep the various pc board wires away from any potential pinch points. I’m always reluctant to snip off any unused decoder wires, so those too get wrapped around, tucked out of the way, and held in place with a small dab of sticky-tac. Very useful, and endlessly re-useable, stuff!
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I love this project!
Do you have any plans to fill that empty space inside with weight for better pick up and traction?
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CR4100 … I’ve put several hours of running time on that Kato chassis, and not once has it ever stuttered or faltered in any way at all. In future use, if it needs a bit of extra weight, it will get it.
There’s sufficient space in the cab to drop in some contoured lead tape/ribbon, for instance.
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This is a wonderful project Dwight. I appreciate the creativity you implemented here.
You couldn’t have picked a better mechanism for it. These little Katos are absolute gems.
Nicely done!
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Mr. Starbuck - so nice to hear from you; thanks for the confidence boost!
A short stint on the LokProgrammer brought the three LED’s to life.
First, a pic of the front headlight:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155922.jpeg)
Here’s a pic of the rear red marker lamp (toggled by F3):
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724155943.jpeg)
And here’s the rear headlight, which illuminates only in reverse (the red marker light is also lit up, but appears kinda washed out):
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/41/6438-010724160004.jpeg)
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Well executed project Dwight!
One question for you, couplers? :P some z scale couplers would look nice and fine on this tiny unit.
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Well executed project Dwight!
One question for you, couplers? :P some z scale couplers would look nice and fine on this tiny unit.
. . .or wait for those true-scale couplers which will be available soon.
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I mentioned earlier that I needed to be able to remove the roof to facilitate access to the LED’s.
Like many modellers, I’ve never liked the idea of permanently affixing LED’s within the shell, with their wires being ‘tethered’ to the chassis-mounted decoder. Some of our brethren have devised admirable phosphor/bronze ‘flex arms’ that press against copper contact pads; others use tiny plugs & sockets, and there are undoubtedly other approaches (which would be great to hear about).
Not long ago, there was a topic covering roll-your-own streetcars wherein bbunge described how he uses styrene tube as an LED holder. I decided to use his technique on the box cab.
Funny thing is that over 35 years ago I thought I had a clever idea. That was before Internet or online forums. It was also before white LEDs were even available, and DCC was not on my radar either.
Even back then I liked to have realistic constant-lighting on (DC) models. So I build those 4- or 6-diode constant lighting circuits popular back then, and used the Miniatonics 1.2mm diameter 1.5V tiny incandescent light bulbs for illuminating my models. Asa bonus, those bulbs had a lens-shaped end which produced a nicely focused bright light. Like a real headlight.
Since I fully expected those tiny bulbs to have fairly short life, and since I like to make my models easily serviceable, I used brass tubes epoxied inside the shell to hold the bulbs in place, yet make it a breeze to replace them if burned out. Here is an example.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/11/2700-060619185523-111342279.jpeg)
The 4 bulbs are head lights and ditch lights, while the tubes under the roof (only one is fully visible) are for the strobes on the loco's nose. Those are long tubes located between the roof and cab's interior ceiling. Nice thing about using brass tubes is that unlike plastic tubes, brass is completely opaque, preventing any light bleed.
In my example I also custom-etched PC boards to make the replacement even easier. Lamps only have short leads which can be unsoldered at the PC board, without disturbing the full wire harness inside the shell.
I don't remember if I read about this technique somewhere, or if I came with it on my own, but it is interesting seeing something similar used by other modelers decades later. Not that white LEDs should ever have to be replaced during the model's lifetime.
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I have indeed been thinking about couplers, and I was going to get into that next.
All along, my plan was to only put a MT coupler on the rear. I might be able to hit my LHS tomorrow. But I really like Peteski’s suggestion to use the new N-Possible device. I’ll switch to that in the Fall.
Peter - that’s an interesting tale how you were using the retaining tube concept for loco lighting all those years ago. Of course, styrene tubes won’t short out the LED when the solder joints touch the inner cylindrical surface.
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Peter - that’s an interesting tale how you were using the retaining tube concept for loco lighting all those years ago. Of course, styrene tubes won’t short out the LED when the solder joints touch the inner cylindrical surface.
That's true - that's why I slipped some insulation over the bare light bulb leads. :D
Brass tubes also have thinner walls, which sometimes makes a difference in N scale tight installations. But plastic tubing is suitable too.
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After a bit of a delay, I managed to put a few finishing touches on my inaugural scratch-building endeavour.
I nestled a hand-held signal lantern on the floor of the front stoop:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/42/6438-200724155604.jpeg)
… and put a second lantern with a red lens on the rear:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/42/6438-200724155638.jpeg)
I also installed a Microtrains coupler, and shortly thereafter, stumbled upon a tiny piece of rolling stock that seemed like it could be just the thing to haul around behind this diminutive locomotive.
I found this at a train show some time ago - it was getting batted about in the bottom of a box full of used N scale track and turnouts, had lost its wheels who knows when, and had unusual formed-wire couplers, the type of which I had never seen before. The vendor willingly tossed it in with a couple of tank cars that I purchased from him, and I pretty much forgot all about it.
I posted a pic here on TRW, and folks informed me that it’s an item from the MinitrainS product line (European, I believe).
I removed the wire configurations, managed to equip it with a single Microtrains coupler, and easily popped in a set of spare wheels. Being so small, it needed a bit of additional weight, so I cut thin strips of lead tape and rolled them up to simulate a load of steel coils.
Here’s a short, hastily shot demonstration video of the final makeup, running on my workbench test oval:
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The only thing left to do is locate some white water-slide decal lettering so that the road insignia can be finalized, but I’m afraid that will be dependent upon a serendipitous find at some future train show. Other than that, I think I can call this project “done”.
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@Jim Starbuck … private email sent.
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Email sent
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Well done Dwight!
This looks really good.
Craig
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Hey Craig, thanks for having a look and commenting.
This introduction to scratch building has given me the confidence to tackle a structure as a next project. I’m looking at the Markham station - built 1870 for Grand Trunk Railway. It’s a busy spot these days as a GO stop, has been lovingly restored and maintained throughout its existence, is not overly complicated modelling-wise, and I can be there in 15 minutes to take pics and measurements.
https://www.doorsopenontario.on.ca/events/markham-1/markham-village-train-station/Markham-Village-Train-Station-5.png
https://www.doorsopenontario.on.ca/events/markham-1/markham-village-train-station/Markham-Village-Train-Station-3.jpg
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Hey Craig, thanks for having a look and commenting.
This introduction to scratch building has given me the confidence to tackle a structure as a next project. I’m looking at the Markham station - built 1870 for Grand Trunk Railway. It’s a busy spot these days as a GO stop, has been lovingly restored and maintained throughout its existence, is not overly complicated modelling-wise, and I can be there in 15 minutes to take pics and measurements.
https://www.doorsopenontario.on.ca/events/markham-1/markham-village-train-station/Markham-Village-Train-Station-5.png
https://www.doorsopenontario.on.ca/events/markham-1/markham-village-train-station/Markham-Village-Train-Station-3.jpg
Oh that will be a cool project!!
I need to use the lathe idea. Love the bell and tanks.
Craig
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I closed off this build just about two weeks ago, saying that the only thing left to do was to find just the right water-slide decal lettering for the road name - a dubious, long-shot proposition that I thought would “be dependent upon a serendipitous find at some future train show”.
I am thrilled to report that Jim Starbuck generously offered to help me out by custom-printing what turned out to be exactly what I had in mind! We exchanged a few email messages, and within about a week I had the perfectly executed, commercial-grade professional results in-hand. Thank you Mr. Starbuck … you’re a stellar guy indeed!
Apologies if folks are maybe getting a bit tired of seeing this model, but I felt it only proper to wrap things up by showing the final result. By the way, the “JMC&M” insignia is simply the initials of our four grandkids:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/42/6438-310724164215.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/42/6438-310724164236.jpeg)
And what the heck - here’s a final video clip demonstrating the forward, reverse, and red marker lamps:
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There’s a bit of red LED bleeding through into the back-up/reverse headlight housing that needs tidied up, but I think I can say that this build is now complete. Thanks for following.
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That looks great Dwight! Glad I could help.
Many, many times I’ve been the recipient of the generosity, talent and knowledge here.
Railwire man, that’s how we do!