TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on June 04, 2021, 07:24:32 PM
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/medium_53-040621190953.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=24193)
https://www.thedrive.com/news/33374/this-jet-engined-mini-rail-kart-belongs-on-a-roller-coaster-right-now
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I haven't the faintest idea why they keep all this lumber laying around the yard, but I dutifully modeled it anyway -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1610.JPG)
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1608.JPG)
-Mark
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Just a guess, but I suspect it’s lumber they would use to deal with unexpected situations that happen to railroads. When such an event happens, you need the material now, not when the Home Depot opens in the morning.
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With all of the "goofy yard junk" projects finally crossed off my to-do list, I was able to pivot back to my model of the Waseca Public Works building -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1612.JPG)
I finished up all the annoying corner punching, filing and sanding this morning, so now I can turn my attention to the fun stuff (detailing!) :)
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1613.jpg)
-Mark
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Mark - no one models junk like you! Very impressive! Have you sent photos of your layout to Model Railroader or other magazines? Your layout is just superb, and there have been two great N scale layouts in recent issues of MR. Would be great to have more! Bob
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Thanks for the kind words Bob, much appreciated! It's nice to be considered the "best" at something, even if it is just junk :D
No, I haven't submitted any layout pictures anywhere. But I might consider it when the whole thing is done (which should hopefully happen this year).
-Mark
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Thousands and thousands of shingles...but the joint D&RGW/RGS Ridgway, CO depot in HOn3 is still a long way from done.
Intentional anachronism here... I chose to build the original wood plank platform instead of the replacement concrete slab platform (no one's exactly sure when that change happened) that was there during my era. I think the wood platform is more visually appealing.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1151-050621111622-24188621.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1151-050621111622-241881842.jpeg)
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I spent some time over the week getting some the SD38s painted and then getting started applying decals to BLE 866.
[attachimg=1]
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I'm channeling my inner Max and Lee. Bachmann 0-40T remotor experiment. Take 1 cheap chinese motor same dimensions as the Bachmann one - new one is a straight wound 3 pole motor much like the old one. Yes it's a crappy 0-4-0T side rods are missing but you wouldn't experiment on a pristine example. It took a bit of shell modification to get the new motor in and I now have the problem of running wires to the motor tabs on the opposite end than the bachmann one. I like a challenge :D :D
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-050621152558.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-050621152508.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-050621152821.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-050621152724.jpeg)
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Wouldn't it be fun to find a geared motor that would fit in there? Nice work. Following with interest.
Meanwhile, I'm taking advantage of the nice weather by catching a summer excursion...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/9-050621162434.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24202)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/9-050621162519.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24203)
Lee
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/medium_53-040621190953.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=24193)
That thing looks like something out of a Road Runner cartoon. There should be an ACME sticker on it somewhere. Where is the coyote?!
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I'm channeling my inner Max and Lee. Bachmann 0-40T remotor experiment. Take 1 cheap chinese motor same dimensions as the Bachmann one - new one is a straight wound 3 pole motor much like the old one. Yes it's a crappy 0-4-0T side rods are missing but you wouldn't experiment on a pristine example. It took a bit of shell modification to get the new motor in and I now have the problem of running wires to the motor tabs on the opposite end than the bachmann one. I like a challenge :D :D
...<snip>...
Looking at the motor you used as a replacement, it looks like it has a lot more wire on the armature, and much bigger magnets. It's hard to know without knowing the wire gauge and resistance of the coils, but there is some hope that it is a stronger motor than the original.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-050621152724.jpeg)
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The Bachmann is 11.5 Ohms resistance and the Chinese one is 33 ohms, more wire stronger magnets. The new one runs faster which is arguably what you don't want. When I ramped up the voltage some of the damaged siderods flew off! It is however much smoother and only cost 94 US cents each.
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Just about done building the Railbus supplied by @Chris333. Painted, DCC installed and lights are working.
I still need to apply handrails, decals, some sort of interior/window coverings to hide the wires, and the cowcatcher.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1071-050621193805.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1071-050621193832.jpeg)
And a picture with the super-sized quarter for scale :D
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1071-050621193858.jpeg)
And here is a short video
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Been doing a bunch of research on the original interiors for The Canadian. This will lead to a more thorough super detailing thread shortly, but I couldn't resist printing out some test murals for my Park car...
[attachimg=1]
Mount Burgess and Emerald Lake Chalet, as painted by Harold Beament, was the main mural in the Yoho Park mural lounge.
[attachimg=2]
The Yoho Park map mural.
[attachimg=3]
I also test printed some new drumheads, which will get printed in a bit higher resolution on white decal paper. This will replace the stock white drumhead (which was printed crooked on my car).
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I think the wood platform is more visually appealing.
The wood makes it good! :D
-Mark
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At the risk of having my modeling labeled ‘amateur hour’ as someone here did my last post, here’s a couple more photos of scenes on my latest two T-TRAK junction modules...
I still have a few details and weathering to do.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621203825.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24208)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621203905.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24209)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621203940.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24210)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621204016.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24211)
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At the risk of having my modeling labeled ‘amateur hour’ as someone here did my last post, here’s a couple more photos of scenes on my latest two T-TRAK junction modules...
I still have a few details and weathering to do.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621203940.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24210)
While I didn't use that word, I was involved in the original discussion, and was is one specific item you used that resulted in that comment. You have since explained why you used that item. IMO, you are a very good modeler, and your modeling looks great.
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Adding an alternate era (1987+) to the layout to keep things interesting and to go more proto. I’ve decided that I’m likely bagging the fictional Seaboard Central Ry. in favor of the Southern Ry. and the Aberdeen, Carolina & Western RR, depending on the era. With 1987 comes CSXT on the roundy-round portion of the layout:
(https://i.imgur.com/hQQxdk2.jpg)
More on the Carolina Sandhills Lines in the Layout Engineering Forum.
DFF
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While I didn't use that word, I was involved in the original discussion, and was is one specific item you used that resulted in that comment. You have since explained why you used that item. IMO, you are a very good modeler, and your modeling looks great.
Right, the 'amateur hour' comment was directed strictly at Woodland Scenics and their (IMHO) crinkly looking wire product. My apologies if it sounded like I was denigrating arbomambo's modeling skills, as that was not my intention at all. Clearly he is a highly skilled modeler.
-Mark
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It’s been another good week for the big trains in small-town PA. I spent a couple nights weathering this IC boxcar. The dust effects turned out a bit more opaque than I wanted, but I love the results anyway. Runny white paint residue takes a long time to do well!
[attachimg=1]
Then I went a little crazy yesterday and laid a proof-of-concept loop for the outdoor railroad I’m still designing. I’m mostly re-using a gravel strip in the side yard that contains a runoff drain. The loop in the front is awkwardly shimmed to height, so I know how much cut and fill work to do.
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
[attachimg=7]
Finally, a chance to JFRTM!
-Steven
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:ashat: Fail.... https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=51920.msg712832#msg712832
(https://i.imgur.com/OOFWHZq.jpg?1)
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A wee bit o house work:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40665.msg712843#msg712843 (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40665.msg712843#msg712843)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1760-060621165315.jpeg)
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Working on the second ATSF Texas type - a Bachmann 2-10-4 in nscale :D :D
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-060621180711.jpeg)
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I still have a few details and weathering to do.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2607-050621203940.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24210)
Hi Bruce;
What is the origin of the white rectangular block building in the background? BTW, the module looks great.
Kind regards,
Bill
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I got an order in from Shellscale, so I had to do some more decaling this weekend. While pretty plain, I think this scheme looks pretty good on the SD39.
[attachimg=1]
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It's not a Blue Bird or a Blue Goose just an ordinary ATSF 3460 Class Hudson in progress.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-060621212939.jpeg)
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Meaning no disrespect, but I love Santa Fe steam too much to let this go without comment. That Bachmann boiler is way too fat and clunky, and the drivers way undersized for the 84” drivered 3460 class Hudson. Makes a sleek and elegant locomotive look fat and top heavy. I did it some thirty plus years ago, put a lot of effort in it, and the end result was a pig. I’d hate to see someone making the same mistake, but YMMV. Certainly don’t want to discourage anyone from building models of my fave railroad’s locos. 8)
Pic below of an HO model of what it’s supposed to look like…
Otto K.
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Meaning no disrespect, but I love Santa Fe steam too much to let this go without comment. That Bachmann boiler is way too fat and clunky, and the drivers way undersized for the 84” drivered 3460 class Hudson. Makes a sleek and elegant locomotive look fat and top heavy. I did it some thirty plus years ago, put a lot of effort in it, and the end result was a pig. I’d hate to see someone making the same mistake, but YMMV. Certainly don’t want to discourage anyone from building models of my fave railroad’s locos. 8)
Pic below of an HO model of what it’s supposed to look like…
Otto K.
Hi Otto, thanks for the feedback, the boiler as it stands seems to be 1mm too fat (going from scale drawings) , I think it would look better with 84 inch drivers, I plan to try Kato 4-8-4 drivers (78 inches) to see if that makes it look less fat. I could just make a brass boiler for it and graft in the sand dome. The width should be 94 1/2 inches, I was using this model as a proof of concept just to see how it looked and to get feedback on whether it could be improved - which it can. I can get 84 inch drivers in spoke but not boxpok.
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So thinking about the hudson for a bit, I thought perhaps looking at creating a Brass / Plastic Hybrid model. The boiler is brass 15mm and using a Bachmann Cab which needs reaming out but it's a start. This boiler does look slimmer. :D
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/256-070621003403.jpeg)
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At the risk of having my modeling labeled ‘amateur hour’ as someone here did my last post, here’s a couple more photos of scenes on my latest two T-TRAK junction modules...
I still have a few details and weathering to do.
Unless you are getting paid to do this, then you ARE an amateur...a really good one that models some great scenes, but still an amateur :D
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Tried out my latest prototype of the K-Mount for slide switch control.
This one includes a fulcrum.
I did one more revision to build the "hook" that captures the throw wire in place, but I think I have achieved my goal.
[attachimg=1]
I'm trading a case of beer for 30 prints.
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Hi Otto, thanks for the feedback, the boiler as it stands seems to be 1mm too fat (going from scale drawings) , I think it would look better with 84 inch drivers, I plan to try Kato 4-8-4 drivers (78 inches) to see if that makes it look less fat. I could just make a brass boiler for it and graft in the sand dome. The width should be 94 1/2 inches, I was using this model as a proof of concept just to see how it looked and to get feedback on whether it could be improved - which it can. I can get 84 inch drivers in spoke but not boxpok.
Hello back, kiwi, I’m glad you’re looking at an alternative to that thing. My Bachman boiler scales to 108” diameter, too fat even for the Northern. The brass tube maybe the way to go. One distinctive feature is that there’s not much of a taper on the 3460 class, see ATSF diagram below (I believe the diagram does not include about 1.5” of boiler cladding, so you should add about 3” to the diameter). The drivers…well that’s a tough one, only the Hiawatha loco has the proper driver and type and there’s no mech I know of that will accept those, even if you could find them. So your cut down KATO maybe the best bet.
Good luck with your build,
Otto
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Are you gentlemen forgetting @draskouasshat 's 3463, made with a cut down brass boiler, frame from a Model Power mogul and drivers from Fox Valley's Milwaukee Road Atlantic?
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44902.msg579927#msg579927
I've been thinking about trying to bash an old Con Cor Hudson into a 3450 rather than a 3461. It looks much closer dimensionally. And the Con Cor drivers are about 77"- pretty close when you allow for oversized flanges to the 79" of the prototype. Given the number of projects I have, I'll be lucky to get started in this decade.
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Considering the prices those Atlantics are going for thats an expensive Hudson!
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I think for a period of time some years ago, the drivers were available as parts.
I'm still rather surprised, given the amount of effort, money, and other resources that folks have put into building and kitbashing various AT&SF Hudsons, still no manufacturer has risen to the challenge. I thought the rule was that a manufactured version was supposed to be announced within 48 hours of the decals setting.
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Are you gentlemen forgetting @draskouasshat 's 3463, made with a cut down brass boiler, frame from a Model Power mogul and drivers from Fox Valley's Milwaukee Road Atlantic?
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44902.msg579927#msg579927
I've been thinking about trying to bash an old Con Cor Hudson into a 3450 rather than a 3461. It looks much closer dimensionally. And the Con Cor drivers are about 77"- pretty close when you allow for oversized flanges to the 79" of the prototype. Given the number of projects I have, I'll be lucky to get started in this decade.
Yes I hadn't realised that Adam made a Hudson, I've seen some of his other models but not that one! I have 3450 Class on my list - it's a very long one. My Santa Fe diesel list is just as long perhaps longer!
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Hello back, kiwi, I’m glad you’re looking at an alternative to that thing. My Bachman boiler scales to 108” diameter, too fat even for the Northern. The brass tube maybe the way to go. One distinctive feature is that there’s not much of a taper on the 3460 class, see ATSF diagram below (I believe the diagram does not include about 1.5” of boiler cladding, so you should add about 3” to the diameter). The drivers…well that’s a tough one, only the Hiawatha loco has the proper driver and type and there’s no mech I know of that will accept those, even if you could find them. So your cut down KATO maybe the best bet.
Good luck with your build,
Otto
Hi Otto,
I'm using the Steam Locomotives of the Santa Fe, A Former Shopman's Scrapbook as my main reference. If the Kato Drivers don't work out, I can get 13mm rims from the 2mm Society and make the centers. This will give me the prototypical size and look but I'll need to make a custom brass mechanism for it.
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I bought this beauty after I got my first vaccination...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-090621100446.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24228)
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I bought this beauty after I got my first vaccination...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-090621100446.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24228)
Glad to hear you're getting vaccinated. When you go back for the second vaccination, you might want to ask for a tetanus shot, so you can remain safe around that PC U-Boat. :trollface:
DFF
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Tried out my latest prototype of the K-Mount for slide switch control.
This one includes a fulcrum.
I did one more revision to build the "hook" that captures the throw wire in place, but I think I have achieved my goal.
(Attachment Link)
I'm trading a case of beer for 30 prints.
Hook that up with a fascia mounted pen clicker and you'll really have something!
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Tried out my latest prototype of the K-Mount for slide switch control.
This one includes a fulcrum.
I did one more revision to build the "hook" that captures the throw wire in place, but I think I have achieved my goal.
(Attachment Link)
I'm trading a case of beer for 30 prints.
That is RFC (really cool)
-Dave
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I bought this beauty after I got my first vaccination...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-090621100446.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24228)
Thumbs up on the vaccine. And that’s one beautifully weathered and detailed U-Boat. I’d have never guessed it was N except for the couplers. It beats my Large-scale PC U25b by a long shot! Guess it’s time I try weathering mine...
-Steven
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End of story - Arbo is a master with that venue of modeling!
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That is RFC (really cool)
-Dave
Do you have a printer? Want the file to try it out?
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Thumbs up on the vaccine. And that’s one beautifully weathered and detailed U-Boat. I’d have never guessed it was N except for the couplers. It beats my Large-scale PC U25b by a long shot! Guess it’s time I try weathering mine...
-Steven
Hmm, another one will eventually come too...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-110621100042.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24233)
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-110621100042.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24233)
Seeing your PC GP30 in the 2200-series reminded me of this photo, taken in December 2018 at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania, of our children aboard No. 2233 in Conrail paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/Vm8rHQH.jpg)
Good times!
DFF
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That new wood smell - Heading to new house for the weekend. Stop at HOME DEPOT with shopping list
and working in train room/office/studio all weekend. Adding cleats to the top of the shelf brackets, using
1x4 cleats and front stringer. Getting Masonite for backdrop and fascia. I have a track plan and what will be
modeled, after extensive planning - Messing up and redoing was the planning. https://www.facebook.com/sanjacintodisctrict
*spelled weird by FB
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That new wood smell - Heading to new house for the weekend. Stop at HOME DEPOT with shopping list
and working in train room/office/studio all weekend. Adding cleats to the top of the shelf brackets, using
1x4 cleats and front stringer. Getting Masonite for backdrop and fascia. I have a track plan and what will be
modeled, after extensive planning - Messing up and redoing was the planning. https://www.facebook.com/sanjacintodisctrict
*spelled weird by FB
I worked at a lumber yard in high school. I love that freshly cut, new lumber smell. Keep us posted on your progress.
DFF
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Foxy always!
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That new wood smell - Heading to new house for the weekend. Stop at HOME DEPOT with shopping list
and working in train room/office/studio all weekend. Adding cleats to the top of the shelf brackets, using
1x4 cleats and front stringer. Getting Masonite for backdrop and fascia. I have a track plan and what will be
modeled, after extensive planning - Messing up and redoing was the planning. https://www.facebook.com/sanjacintodisctrict
*spelled weird by FB
@chuck geiger , if I can offer one suggestion, it would be to make that transition to the west turnout in Hemet a little sooner so that the transition isn't so sharp.
Looking forward to your progress.
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/2571-110621100042.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24233)
How did you do the PRR antenna bumps?
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I drive by a small grove of pines with my tractor to the kid's house once a week..Love the smell of the pines!
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Seeing your PC GP30 in the 2200-series reminded me of this photo, taken in December 2018 at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania, of our children aboard No. 2233 in Conrail paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/Vm8rHQH.jpg)
Good times!
DFF
I have to wait until August, then 2233 will arrive on my shelf, custom painted & decaled...
Stay safe & healthy
THF
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@chuck geiger , if I can offer one suggestion, it would be to make that transition to the west turnout in Hemet a little sooner so that the transition isn't so sharp.
Looking forward to your progress.
Will do....
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@chuck geiger , if I can offer one suggestion, it would be to make that transition to the west turnout in Hemet a little sooner so that the transition isn't so sharp.
Looking forward to your progress.
Better - There are some future sidings coming, like at Ellis, according to CLIC abandoned siding, gonna make a sugar beet siding, with portable loader....Those cool SP cars. Ellis or Romoland
is just East of Perris on the straight section. BTW first time I have ever used Any Rail.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1137-150621203541.png) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24302)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1137-150621204148.png) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24303)
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Are you gentlemen forgetting @draskouasshat 's 3463, made with a cut down brass boiler, frame from a Model Power mogul and drivers from Fox Valley's Milwaukee Road Atlantic?
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44902.msg579927#msg579927
I've been thinking about trying to bash an old Con Cor Hudson into a 3450 rather than a 3461. It looks much closer dimensionally. And the Con Cor drivers are about 77"- pretty close when you allow for oversized flanges to the 79" of the prototype. Given the number of projects I have, I'll be lucky to get started in this decade.
Yup, there's absolutely no mech for those drivers to fit in :D! As you can see, that's incorrect and the drivers fit in a model power 2-6-0 mogul mechanism.
Drasko
[attachimg=1]
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Back in the '80s I used to live in Riverside and was active at the museum in Perris. Until the mid-1990s the old Winchester depot sat forlorn in a farmer's field about a mile east of the former location. Good luck on the project. Backgrounds will be tricky since most of the area is flat (except for a few rises east of Perris, and the hill in Perris).
Rrrover
Better - There are some future sidings coming, like at Ellis, according to CLIC abandoned siding, gonna make a sugar beet siding, with portable loader....Those cool SP cars. Ellis or Romoland
is just East of Perris on the straight section. BTW first time I have ever used Any Rail.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1137-150621203541.png) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24302)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/24/1137-150621204148.png) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=24303)
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Heads up. Not sure if it'll make a difference, but you've got a bit of an S curve through the switch here that might be a problem.
[attachimg=1]
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Heads up. Not sure if it'll make a difference, but you've got a bit of an S curve through the switch here that might be a problem.
(Attachment Link)
This is a rather common mistake I see a lot of modelers make when they put a switch with the diverting route going in the direction opposite that of the preceding curve. However, you also see the prototype do the same thing except there’s usually a sufficient amount of straight track between the curve and the switch. The best way for a modeler to arrange the track is to use a switch with the diverging route acting as a continuation of the curve. This makes the diverging route the mainline and the straight route becomes the siding. The trains will transit this arrangement much easier and smoother, plus it gains a few valuable inches of space.
The track plan shown actually has 2 of these “S” curves.
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I'd suggest keeping the turnout as a right hand switch and just adjusting the alignment of the broad mainline curves to the right of the turnout on the plan. That way, the mainline through the turnout stays on the straight route and the siding gets the diverging route.
I agree with @CRL that the prototype will sometimes put the diverging route going in the opposite direction of the preceding curve, but that's generally for reduced speed trackage and likely entering into a siding. I'd keep the mainline through the straight side.
DFF
Note: Do as I say, not as I do, because I violated this recommended practice on my layout. ;)
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I think the best plan would be to keep the mainline straight before and through the switch, if you have room to do that. I have had some problems with steam loco pilot trucks picking points where the mainline has a curve with a turnout in it set up for the straight path to go outside the curve. But, if you don't have the room, then that is still better than the S curve.
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Or use a curved turnout.