TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on September 06, 2019, 07:24:50 PM
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/medium_53-060919191729.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=12358)
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=myimages;u=53 UNCROPPED SHOTS HERE
http://www.lbfoster.com/en/market-segments/rail-technologies
http://www.lbfoster.com/en/market-segments/rail-technologies/solutions/rail-monitoring/lidar
http://www.lbfoster.com/perch/resources/railminicatalogweb2018.pdf
http://www.lbfoster.com/perch/resources/transit-products-catalog2018.pdf
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"find out why a main Pavonia Yard lead no longer gets power"
If you're using DC, I don't envy you. I've been through that....
I am using DC and it took me the good part of the week to track this down.
As best as I can guess, one of the miniature power toggles on the control panel either shorted out itself or shorted to the toggle next to it (separated by 2 layers of electrical tape).
Naturally it was the short (barely bracketing the 2 Baldwin switchers in the picture) yard lead that controlled 6 of the 9 yard tracks. I replaced the 2 toggles and separated them with electrical tape and a strip of styrene.
I have also “tuned” 57 of the 63 switches in preparation for the next op session (I still have at least 2 switches that will probably need to be replaced). Now there will be a short work delay as I prepare for a colonoscopy. :drool:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2065-060919192641.jpeg)
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Here it is! One curved, skewed trestle:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/1292-060919173352.jpeg)
More on the Seaboard Central 3.0 thread in the Layout Engineering Forum.
DFF
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Let's see...N Scale catenary and a T.A.R.D.I.S...
(https://sopacincg.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/20190906_103800-e1567792508821-768x1024.jpg)
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My scale test car from last weekend, but painted and decaled.
[attachimg=1]
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Finished my diorama project. It is now mounted on the club layout. The lights will be turned down a tad............
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/p9030266.135513/full&d=1567524211)
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I've been a Photoning phool this week. Test run of a signal project:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/UP_hoods1.jpg)
Pile o' windows fresh out of the printer, batch #2:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/photon_windows.jpg)
And their intended project, with first batch installed:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/kelso_windows2.jpg)
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So, this should look familiar to @gary60s since it's his design (found here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=37619.0 (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=37619.0)) I scratch-built his "General Purpose Factory" as an auto body shop named after a buddy of mine (and fellow Mustang enthusiast) from high school. I added gutters using 0.060" channel, and made downspouts using 0.025" wire. The windows and doors are Tichy, and the overhead doors are just the cutouts rotated 90-degrees with some trim added. The paint booth is made from edited photos I found online of a cross-draft paint booth, complete with a '65 Mustang being prepped for paint. The plans are nice - only had to make one or two tweaks, and it went together easily. Thanks, @gary60s !
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
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(http://www.candida-yeast-problems.com/stuff/Hot-Rod.jpg)
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little bit of scenery on the HOn30 layout
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TQLdH75E8NUy9P8RVbns_q8piueEUtrae-JVwrrAm42lxfzL9yVqr9iBa1VuKIGuyJDd9OGaEpv3aBpPzGFcTGoZiGOEshdytVkmF_ofpRm8sZ24UG-DmS7CL2_OBON5EdB6iHOwuLmQKX_m388_Q_gu5JJmBt9Sp_BOsrcm_FAEgN6sb3KQivUBfrxvcLAzHiIjDILYpmLnCYc-7xXbRhOlwugSlzGLMJTAdlPyA4tRIIpLlOmRVI93X85l2PgrM1F-NikoNAoydP5teZ38kxE_pxlVGxaFUqduRf5Yvv-KAx9IMiomwOCZomPRvf0qLRqlGiwTi9JwMiaWpsTqKtDjQKSkgsOH6j5u-3UiWwJkaZLyl_sSYDXMWZaGsisa-3D-y9z3l-xcd0Anz79YdP0pjrhAwLrFRIqLZVXkERbuBPt5A8TELJDRro8KQaZapYHuAlyMXEqTyD-dJPo4-lu0aOrqbvjmwayqZPxArKomGFI9hEKp5q-ZFpDc3IirtywvBwscD7kR226_V0YLe6sLfRZY5kdwLRNW6nFZ14L2P7BoXmiVPo4TQM-fAKIvTHgoLXpdZwrG9UwgOgAMGlzJD0l2aDB01z2kmDJAhVbs_nrFyyZ8t25LQM4haT6s196_EQESN0_4Pl5YYK_xvNucWKApM5OpQ0LM6AlmTx-cQO5XX6R47PN9zE9uoBNEAh9CubqyEwHUdm7Iu2bAAEXFstObF6sooopzr3M5AdXW9HAz=w1500-h855-no?.jpg)
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I've been a Photoning phool this week. Test run of a signal project:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/UP_hoods1.jpg)
Looking good. I think that if you printed these using black resin, it would make easier to block the LED light from shining through the resin.
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Looking good. I think that if you printed these using black resin, it would make easier to block the LED light from shining through the resin.
That's the intent, I had white in the machine and was running mostly for test fits. It has been mentioned the available black resin might be translucent, a sort of dark smoked clear, so gray may be the end game for something opaque.
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That's the intent, I had white in the machine and was running mostly for test fits. It has been mentioned the available black resin might be translucent, a sort of dark smoked clear, so gray may be the end game for something opaque.
I see. Yeah, translucent black would not be optimal.
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It's true. I've lost my mind.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/9-060919225044.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12364)
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It's true. I've lost my mind.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/9-060919225044.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12364)
let's compare notes...I am starting to string N Scale catenary...my biggest source of happiness this week is a little blue box....you're taking cabeese that no one really want, slapping them on a crappy Con Cor passenger car truck and making money....
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It's true. I've lost my mind.
Nice... Your "backshop bobbers" are very reminiscent of David A Bontrager's cabooses from RMJ in the 1990s.
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More progress on a trio of boxcar projects.
Thanks to a helpful Micro-Trains employee, I was able to acquire a second rare 37000 series shell for my USRM double door boxcar project. Changes include cut down 'AR' corner ladders, 'BL' corner top grab iron, end hand holds, body mount couplers and trucks without. These cars are now just waiting on revised prints of the double doors prior to painting:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/1731-070919011520-123651538.jpeg)
My two ex-BAR boxcars are complete. Changes include new 3D printed IDE ends, new 8' doors, extended door tracks, holes filled in roof, 'AR' corner ladders cut down, body mount couplers, and Atlas Barber trucks without:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/1731-070919011520-123651688.jpeg)
And two ex-SOO boxcars rebuilt by USRM are also complete. Changes include 8' panel doors, reinforced bottom side sill, gusset plates either side of doors, cut down ladders at 'AR' corner, 1015 draft gear in Atlas boxes, and BLMA 70-Ton trucks:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/1731-070919011519-123452290.jpeg)
Tim
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Had some fun operating on the Columbia & Western today…
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/3148-070919021349.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12368)
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Rick: I'll bet that was a chore to find. I would have assumed a loose feeder.
JohnB: While not up to modern standards, those old CC passenger trucks aren't bad, especially if you can get the REALLY early, Kato made, ones. They came with 35 inch wheels, close enough to 36 to look right. When CC started making their own they switched to 33 inch, and raised the truck bolster to compensate, which makes it hard to put larger wheels in them. But the trucks themselves look as good as any of the MT trucks.
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I think that if you printed these using black resin, it would make easier to block the LED light from shining through the resin.
How about airbrushing a base coat of TCP Aluminum?
Ed
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How about airbrushing a base coat of TCP Aluminum?
Ed
Sure, that helps, followed by black paint, followed by whatever the final color is. :) I've done that on translucent items back-lit by LEDs. The problem is the edges of the casting. Paint pulls away from the edges resulting in a very thin layer of paint which still lets the light shine through. But with multiple very light coats (which go on almost dry) it is possible to make the translucent object light-tight.
But this is all made much easier if the item in question is opaque, or dark color to begin with.
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Let's see what happens with the black resin before we go on conjecturing what is or isn't going to work.
Some things to consider. First is additional research revealing these resins are transparent (clear) to begin with. Colors are pigments in suspension, and earlier info about the black being transparent or translucent is apparently a factor of pigment density. IOW, gray (or whatever) will have similar issues, if we do in fact have issues.
Second, be forewarned that pre-application of paint of any color may be its own problem during assembly. The design under consideration is intended for friction fit of the LEDs into the pockets. Painting before assembly will scrape off paint in the pocket. Then there's this little dilemma, we are depending on soldering wires onto the LEDs after they have been pressed into the back of the head. If they're painted, I tend to believe that soldering heat becomes an issue, already knowing it's not an issue with the base resin.
Patience, grasshopper.
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It always bugged me that this sign didn't light up like the prototype -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1035.jpg)
Well, thanks to Peteski, now it does -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1286.jpg)
It also looks about a million times better now -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1285.jpg)
So, thanks Peteski. You da man! :D
-Mark
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black being transparent or translucent is apparently a factor of pigment density. IOW, gray (or whatever) will have similar issues, if we do in fact have issues.
Here's how translucent Anycubic Black is:
(https://i.imgur.com/o7nTyuA.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/o7nTyuA.jpg
Anycubic Gray is significantly less translucent. Of course, a full brightness LED is still going to blow it out. Judging from the signals around here, turning down the LED brightness is going to be the best way to prevent light bleed. A lot of the railroad signals I've seen lit up during the day are surprisingly dim.
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It always bugged me that this sign didn't light up like the prototype -
Well, thanks to Peteski, now it does -
(http://www.spookshow.net/layout6/layoutf1286.jpg)
It also looks about a million times better now -
So, thanks Peteski. You da man! :D
-Mark
Thanks for the shout-out Mark. The sign looks great on your layout!
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It's true. I've lost my mind.
At least you had one to lose. Unlike those of us who wait what were we talking about? :facepalm:
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After many, many months of procrastination I nutted up and started scratchbuilding the RGS Ridgway roundhouse. It's built entirely from styrene. Dimensionally, it's exact to prototype except I kept it to the original 5 stalls (2 were added later for the Galloping Geese on the west side). The wedge of lighter color brick above the rear window on the east wall is prototypical...apparently there was some sort of damage (roundhouse fire? partial collapse?) that dates way back to the teens, not long after it was built (replacing the original one on the north side of town). I did use the earlier style doors by Grandt Line (some time in the late 20s/early 30s the doors were replaced with two-panel windowless doors). It’s a very tight fit for a K-27 with snowplow...I made the openings to fit the Grandt Line doors...and they’re EXACTLY the width of a Blackstone snowplow. I feel a scrape or two when housing the engine is totally RGS-like so I’m not losing sleep.
I also must have bumped business car B-21 (the "Edna") while test fitting the roundhouse so if it looks derailed...it's because it is.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/medium_1151-070919202803-12367199.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/medium_1151-070919202808-12375244.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/medium_1151-070919202808-12375638.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/medium_1151-070919202804-12367595.jpeg)
Since I don't like the engineering involved in making removable roofs for complex applications (this roof will have 10 individual panels), I instead make the entire engine house one solid block that is kept in place using locator blocks on the interior, painted black and glued to the layout. It's worked really well for the Rico engine house, so that's my plan here.
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Here's how translucent Anycubic Black is: ...
Figures... I already ordered a (small) bottle of black. Back to eBay we go.
I just confirmed white sorta comes-up short on "opaque":
(http://www.everywherewest.com/UP_hood_test1.jpg) (http://www.everywherewest.com/UP_hood_test2.jpg)
:scared: :scared: :scared:
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For those interested in N scale train operations.
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More progress in Chillicothe this week, mounted the cassette, and ran the first op session :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48699266556_e2e5c3abf8_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48699440637_99be12dc17_b.jpg)
And there's a new layout thread (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=47878.0)-
Lucas
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My other project this weekend was to work on my new HO scale Athearn GP38-2 decorated for another North Carolina short line, the Durham & Southern. I replaced the Tsunami decoder with an ESU V5.0 Loksound decoder and the the lousy Athearn incandescent bulbs with warm-white LEDs. Sergent Engineering couplers are installed, and this Geep has been programmed to run with the ProtoThrottle. :)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/1292-080919135930.jpeg)
More on the Seaboard Central 3.0 thread in the Layout Engineering Forum.
DFF
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Corrected my Kato F3's -- Corrected the factory road number and added few details
(These are from the late '80's)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/dsc03531.135537/full)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/dsc03527.135536/full)
Thanks,
Wolf
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planning the 500 module plus National T-TRAK Layout for Gateway 2020, updating the T-TRAK.org website, and tweaking the updated proposed T-TRAK Standards document for approval has been taken up a large portion of my designated hobby time, but I've made a little time to finish this project - detailing this ATSF 217 LABC consist. I had already started 217C as an excercise, so now want to bring the remaining motors up to that level. Still much to do, but 217L is close to being able to accurize and detail the pilot (for 1957), and all are ready for their Plano photo-etched horizontal grills. I have two more LABC freight sets in the wings - a 260-class with no stainless grills, and the third class with FARR grills, larger fuel tanks, vertical grills, and larger DB fans.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2607-080919163206.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12387)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2607-080919163245.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12388)
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I added a DZ-123 decoder to this Pecos River Brass 3450 class AT&SF Hudson. I still need to weather it.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
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wolf:
love those shots, they look great. I have a few older Kato F3's, did you just apply the correct number boards on top of the existing or did you do something else. eventually i will need to re number mine, cant imaging working with those small small decals :scared:
thanks
miguel
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wolf:
love those shots, they look great. I have a few older Kato F3's, did you just apply the correct number boards on top of the existing or did you do something else. eventually i will need to re number mine, cant imaging working with those small small decals :scared:
thanks
miguel
Hi Miguel,
Thank you, very much!!
For the numbers on the rear panels -- I removed the original numbers then applied new numbers. For the number boards, I removed the numbers I had previously applied - then reapplied the new correct numbers. A little weathering to blend everything.
Thanks again,
Wolf
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Installed the skyboard/scene divider to provide the view block for the staging tracks, and started cutting some foam.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/9-080919233941.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12390)
Checked the clearance for those times when the cat poles will appear...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/9-080919234149.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12391)
And otherwise got myself feeling pretty good about the potential for this thing.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/9-080919234419.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12392)
My conundrum now is, do I proceed with the c80 track so I can keep on having fun with the retro equipment I've accumulated, and place an order for the several turnouts I'll need, or use the mountain of c55 I have at my fingertips and have all the track laid tomorrow...
I might need an intervention of some sort...
Lee
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Maybe spit the difference, keep the track furthest from the layout edge C80 for the vintage stuff.
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Completed the last structure on the Thurmond T-trak module, the post office. This building was formerly the local lunch counter that locals referred to as the “dog wagon.” I hope to post more in the Challenge thread later. The front was from the commercial print, the rest of the building is from scratch. I think I almost did some structure modeling!
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planning the 500 module plus National T-TRAK Layout for Gateway 2020, updating the T-TRAK.org website, and tweaking the updated proposed T-TRAK Standards document for approval has been taken up a large portion of my designated hobby time, but I've made a little time to finish this project - detailing this ATSF 217 LABC consist. I had already started 217C as an excercise, so now want to bring the remaining motors up to that level. Still much to do, but 217L is close to being able to accurize and detail the pilot (for 1957), and all are ready for their Plano photo-etched horizontal grills. I have two more LABC freight sets in the wings - a 260-class with no stainless grills, and the third class with FARR grills, larger fuel tanks, vertical grills, and larger DB fans.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2607-080919163206.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12387)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2607-080919163245.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=12388)
SWEET!!
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
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I am very late to the party this week due to decompressing from VanRail (see separate thread)
In addition to getting the layout ready, I spruced up a Walthers sanding tower with some photo etched railings, scratched a short companion tower, painted them both and added mood lighting. They still need to be based and flip down platforms added.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48685847058_528137e67b_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48686361937_7765571c6d_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48688870876_11b90b8e0f_b.jpg)
thx for looking!
md
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I still have at least 2 switches that will probably need to be replaced.
Most of my turnouts are Peco Electrofrog but I used left over Peco Insulfrogs when I added the staging yards. Two of them puzzled me because I had power in the closure rails up to the frog but not beyond the frog. I looked at another Insulfrog and saw they carried power beyond the plastic frog via 2 wires under the ties.
Before tearing out the yard leads I figured I would try to go old school. I pounded the areas before and after the frog with a hammer and a piece of wood (cushion). Now they work great.
Just goes to show you that you can fix anything if you have a big enough hammer.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2065-110919174042.jpeg)
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Just goes to show you that you can fix anything if you have a big enough hammer.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2065-110919174042.jpeg)
Yep... and if that doesn’t work you have a head start on the demolition. :D
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Most of my turnouts are Peco Electrofrog but I used left over Peco Insulfrogs when I added the staging yards. Two of them puzzled me because I had power in the closure rails up to the frog but not beyond the frog. I looked at another Insulfrog and saw they carried power beyond the plastic frog via 2 wires under the ties.
Before tearing out the yard leads I figured I would try to go old school. I pounded the areas before and after the frog with a hammer and a piece of wood (cushion). Now they work great.
Just goes to show you that you can fix anything if you have a big enough hammer.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/12/2065-110919174042.jpeg)
that is not a hammer, it is a Scottish fix all
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If you don't have a hammer it is almost as easy to just run two more feeders.