TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on October 12, 2018, 07:25:22 PM
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/medium_53-121018192144.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7683)
https://www.bradleylifting.com/industries/transportation-industry/
https://www.worlifts.co.uk/rail/wheelset-lifting-beam/
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This week's project... no, let me rephrase that... a task that has taken over my MRR life for the past two months has been our club's quarter-scale crossbuck, an attention-getter for train shows. Overall it's been showing its age for a while, but the electronics gave up the ghost at the last show, and I foolishly stepped up to the task of fixing it. Of course, that turned into a complete rebuild and repaint, no good deed goes unpunished.
A pile o' parts after disassembly, awaiting rewiring, cleaning and/or repainting:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_parts.jpg)
Delivered this afternoon to our show venue for this weekend's event:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_done.jpg)
Original configuration was 110V-powered and a direct replacement for the electronics board was located, but there were other issues with the 110V system, plus a desire to convert to LED. On finding appropriate 12VDC LED assemblies (semi-trailer taillights!), I figured the Circuitron FL-2HD flasher board might do the trick. It did, and on initial testing was the discovery that the current draw was so low at 10-15mA, so the whole thing could run on eight D-cell batteries for 15-20 days continuously. Fitting the battery holders into the base was a fabrication challenge, but it worked, the finished photo above taken after a week of uninterrupted operation.
Now maybe I can get back to working on the layout. :|
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This project is actually from last weekend.
I'm thinking about changing out the ginormous ladder. It is bugging me -- LOL
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/2753-071018171058.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/2753-071018171130.jpeg)
Thanks,
Wolf
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Lol Wolf, and while you're at it, make it stand a little more upright. This looks scary... :P
Otto
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remove the ladder, we linemen don't need ladders to climb poles!!!!!!!
Drasko
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I will have to keep my eyes open for Tim's Diesel house Richie...to compare notes ! :)
And thx for posting those photos of the traction motor and wheel lifts
While we were traveling last weekend I got back to the Insulbrick-wrapped Section house finishing it save final weather and proper "planting" in the Coykendahl scene.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1916/31339017228_84a5abde32_b.jpg)
Here is what I am going for…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1879/43402219344_c1e1567905_b.jpg)
And where the scene is at (with a portable station standing in for the operator’s shack ... which I will build after the diesel house)…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1929/43403382130_1822c923c2_b.jpg)
Speaking of the diesel house, decent progress this week
Added the laser cut CPR logo…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1963/45277838121_fa7a7a2a40_b.jpg)
It is a bit thick so I may have it recut in something thinner…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1948/45277837941_06fd1f46b9_b.jpg)
Then back to wall assembly. Two largely complete this week (just need to add the corrugated metal inserts on the Northern walls).
The components of the North stores wall…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1949/44366013655_ab1b1620ab_b.jpg)
And that wall waiting final assembly step…top element is the outer wall which will be glued over the lower laminate of inner wall/middle wall/printed wind pane inserts
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1976/45277837791_453560f26e_b.jpg)
Which then looks like this …
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1977/45277837631_8c7f07cbba_b.jpg)
All the long walls are now pretty much done. Short ends next.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1973/44366013475_6a209ea68b_b.jpg)
Which brings us to this point…
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1960/44366012285_2acda3acbb_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1907/45277837211_90e084a9d3_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1923/44366012445_a9aaae9b8d_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1943/44366013035_876e5ae45d_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1933/45277837421_b1d9a1f538_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1971/44366012895_2237e11fd7_b.jpg)
Have a great weekend!
md
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Mark H
Your diesel house. Profiles in Sheer Modelling Awesomeness.
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Mark, that is just stunning. You're taking photos in the real world and somehow making them look almost like models!
Cheers
Steve
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Mark, what stands out to me is how massive that locomotive looks compared to its surroundings, like the real thing, well done. And of course everything else is a thing of beauty as well.
-Lucas
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:o :o :o
Just simply amazing!
Y-it
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remove the ladder, we linemen don't need ladders to climb poles!!!!!!!
Drasko
Yup, nowdays you have bucket trucks :trollface:
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This week's project... no, let me rephrase that... a task that has taken over my MRR life for the past two months has been our club's quarter-scale crossbuck, an attention-getter for train shows. Overall it's been showing its age for a while, but the electronics gave up the ghost at the last show, and I foolishly stepped up to the task of fixing it. Of course, that turned into a complete rebuild and repaint, no good deed goes unpunished.
A pile o' parts after disassembly, awaiting rewiring, cleaning and/or repainting:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_parts.jpg)
Delivered this afternoon to our show venue for this weekend's event:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_done.jpg)
Original configuration was 110V-powered and a direct replacement for the electronics board was located, but there were other issues with the 110V system, plus a desire to convert to LED. On finding appropriate 12VDC LED assemblies (semi-trailer taillights!), I figured the Circuitron FL-2HD flasher board might do the trick. It did, and on initial testing was the discovery that the current draw was so low at 10-15mA, so the whole thing could run on eight D-cell batteries for 15-20 days continuously. Fitting the battery holders into the base was a fabrication challenge, but it worked, the finished photo above taken after a week of uninterrupted operation.
Now maybe I can get back to working on the layout. :|
Have you consider using a small 12V deep discharge lead acid gel battery? About the same size as eight D cells.
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Very nice. What would be the correct process to restore an old dwarf signal and maybe light it up?
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Have you consider using a small 12V deep discharge lead acid gel battery? About the same size as eight D cells.
Been there. Never, ever, ever again. :o
Back before cell data was "a thing", I designed portable sensor arrays for field deployment with 2-way radios and special modems for data comms. We ruined dozens of these small gel and AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. No matter how often we scolded everyone about battery care, after events the equipment would get stored in a closet or whatever, and not immediately recharged. Storing a mostly-depleted PbHCl battery is nearly always fatal to future use, and these batteries are not all that cheap.
With too many field failures due to batteries that wouldn't hold a charge, I modified the design for D cells, and we installed a fresh set for every event. Worked like a charm, and the batteries would last the entire two- or three-day event with power to spare.
Since I'm frequently the one who hauls the crossbuck, I knew its duty cycle, and it was the same situation as the sensor/telecom system - infrequent, on-demand use for 2 or 3 days at a time, and then hastily stored with no access to recharge power. The solution - well, at least to me - was obvious.
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Very nice. What would be the correct process to restore an old dwarf signal and maybe light it up?
If you're looking to be portable, change the bulbs to suitable LEDs and build a base to hold the batteries. For fixed use, I would build a base anyway 'cause it would look nicer than just sitting on the floor, use LEDs and power it with a 12V wall-wart power supply. Relatively straightforward.
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This project is actually from last weekend.
I'm thinking about changing out the ginormous ladder. It is bugging me -- LOL
The ladder can go away.
Adam @draskouasshat is right, pole climbing in your depicted era was done with gaffs, spikes that attached to boots which dug into the pole as it was scaled. Not so much in modern times because of safety issues, not to mention that the spikes chewed-up the poles.
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I will have to keep my eyes open for Tim's Diesel house Richie...to compare notes ! :)
Whoops , sorry MARK .
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Yup, nowdays you have bucket trucks :trollface:
I used to hump poles for the NY Telephone Co ( remember them ) in the late 60's , learned on hooks in school but out of school used only pegs or ladders .
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(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1971/44366012895_2237e11fd7_b.jpg)
Have a great weekend!
md
That is amazing Mark! I love it! This build really deserves a thread of its own (in the Scratchbuilding section). Too bad you weren't doing that all along, with just teaser photos here in the Weekend Update threads.
While your work is gorgeous, and this has nothing to do with you or your post, it would be nice and courteous of people replying to any threads with lots of photos if they trimmed the long string of photos from their reply. I seen the original photos once, I don't need to scroll through them all again in all the "kudos replies". Sorry for the rant - this is one of the things that annoys me.
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(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_done.jpg)
Original configuration was 110V-powered and a direct replacement for the electronics board was located, but there were other issues with the 110V system, plus a desire to convert to LED. On finding appropriate 12VDC LED assemblies (semi-trailer taillights!), I figured the Circuitron FL-2HD flasher board might do the trick. It did, and on initial testing was the discovery that the current draw was so low at 10-15mA, so the whole thing could run on eight D-cell batteries for 15-20 days continuously. Fitting the battery holders into the base was a fabrication challenge, but it worked, the finished photo above taken after a week of uninterrupted operation.
Now maybe I can get back to working on the layout. :|
Looks good!
I'm also really, really surprised that the LED truck tailight you used only needs 15mA of current @12V. I counted 24 red LEDs in that lamp. To minimize current consumption, these could be several stings of series-connected LEDs tied together. Red LED needs about 2V to operate. 6-series connected LEDs could theoretically run from 12V without a resistor, but you have no control over their current. Let's assume that there are 4 of those stings of 6 LEDs in there (a total of 24 LEDs). The total current the lamp consumes would be divided evenly between those 6 strings of LEDs. 15mA / 6 = 2.5mA per string (and 2.5mA per each LED). If they only need 3.3mA to glow as brightly as they appear, then those are wicked efficient red LEDs. In my experience red LEDs are much less efficient than Blue or White LED. Call me surprised. :D
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Peteski: Your comment re re-posting of lots of photos seems a fair one to me. All that is needed is to quote the original poster's text, unless one's reply is addressing a particular photograph in which case a re-post might be warranted.
Example:
I will have to keep my eyes open for Tim's Diesel house Richie...to compare notes ! :)
Mark: No diesel house in my plans; there was a single track engine house in Chetwynd upon completion of the yard in 1958 but it was gone by 1977. Yours is coming along nicely and i will enjoy seeing it in person one day.
This week saw further progress on my three MLW RS-3s, including removal of original pilots and infill of top steps:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014745-7689213.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014745-76891744.jpeg)
Also, C-425 807 is out of the paint shop and ready for installation of lighting, speaker and decoder:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014743-7687323.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014743-7687338.jpeg)
This locomotive was still in Erie-Lackawanna paint in 1977 with only the BCR dogwood logogram and new number on the cab and number boards.
Thank you to Jeff Briggs for the great paint and decal job; now over to Dave Mackinnon for the lighting, speaker and decoder installations.
Tim
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Peteski: Your comment re re-posting of lots of phothttps://www.therailwire.net/forum/Themes/default/images/bbc/quote.gifos seems a fair one to me. All that is needed is to quote the original poster's text, unless one's reply is addressing a particular photograph in which case a re-post might be warranted.
Exactly! Or even better, go one step further when including one or couple of photos in the reply: reduce their size. Just add a a tag which will display the photo at a certain width (the height will be calculated automatically). That is what I often do. The tag is "width=300" inside the the photo lnk's first IMG tag (that will shring the photo to a large thumbnail size).
Like this:
[img width=300]https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014743-7687323.jpeg[/img]
This week saw further progress on my three MLW RS-3s, including removal of original pilots and infill of top steps:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-131018014743-7687323.jpeg)
Tim
Nice job Tim!
(I used the width=300 to shrink the included photo).
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While your work is gorgeous, and this has nothing to do with you or your post, it would be nice and courteous of people replying to any threads with lots of photos if they trimmed the long string of photos from their reply. I seen the original photos once, I don't need to scroll through them all again in all the "kudos replies". Sorry for the rant - this is one of the things that annoys me.
Imagine if there was some means to simply cast a vote to express one's approval for a particular post instead of necessarily having to quote it and add a comment.
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remove the ladder, we linemen don't need ladders to climb poles!!!!!!!
Drasko
Howdy Otto,
Funny thing - the pole is plumb -- When I first looked at the photo, I thought the same thing. So, I went back up to the train room and checked. Strange --
The ladder can go away.
Adam @draskouasshat is right, pole climbing in your depicted era was done with gaffs, spikes that attached to boots which dug into the pole as it was scaled. Not so much in modern times because of safety issues, not to mention that the spikes chewed-up the poles.
Thanks, Guys --- this helps!! And, thanks, for the education!!
Wolf
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I will have to keep my eyes open for Tim's Diesel house Richie...to compare notes ! :)
md
Tim yourdiesel shop looks incredible! I’m sorry I could t resist.
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Been there. Never, ever, ever again. :o
Back before cell data was "a thing", I designed portable sensor arrays for field deployment with 2-way radios and special modems for data comms. We ruined dozens of these small gel and AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. No matter how often we scolded everyone about battery care, after events the equipment would get stored in a closet or whatever, and not immediately recharged. Storing a mostly-depleted PbHCl battery is nearly always fatal to future use, and these batteries are not all that cheap.
With too many field failures due to batteries that wouldn't hold a charge, I modified the design for D cells, and we installed a fresh set for every event. Worked like a charm, and the batteries would last the entire two- or three-day event with power to spare.
Since I'm frequently the one who hauls the crossbuck, I knew its duty cycle, and it was the same situation as the sensor/telecom system - infrequent, on-demand use for 2 or 3 days at a time, and then hastily stored with no access to recharge power. The solution - well, at least to me - was obvious.
That is true. You do have maintain the batteries and can't leave them in a state of discharge or sulfate will build on the internal plates. With any type of rechargeables you do have to take care of them or else... We use lipos for our R/C airplanes and helicopters and they have to be treated well or they can be ruined in one flight, not to mentioned a crashed model.
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Imagine if there was some means to simply cast a vote to express one's approval for a particular post instead of necessarily having to quote it and add a comment.
There is - it is called up-vote (which is already being utilized on those great posts here).
Then there is Facebook. Not a fan of it and of the silent "thumbs-up" procedure. Even a small 1-sentence kudos (without quoting the entire origina post with a long string of photos) is nicer. :D
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The latest edition to my MoW fleet.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1980/45249469332_9c6f66b58a.jpg)
Doug
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Just a few touch ups on the backdrop this week. Gave the room a good clean up also and I am working on some overall and close up photographs of the layout for the PGE/BCR modellers display board at the Vancouver Train show next month. Looking forward to visiting Canada again even though November temperatures will be a bit of a shock after 3 years in Auckland.
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/img_0784.jpg)
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/img_0786.jpg)
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/img_0810.jpg)
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The first Luke Towan Washington Palm. Made mistakes that will be corrected as the process moves along:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1137-131018185441.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=7713)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1137-131018185511.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=7714)
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Howdy Otto,
Funny thing - the pole is plumb -- When I first looked at the photo, I thought the same thing. So, I went back up to the train room and checked. Strange --
Thanks, Guys --- this helps!! And, thanks, for the education!!
Wolf
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Howdy back Wolf, the "it" I was referencing was the ladder, not the pole. Heck, we've all seen lots of leaning poles, even if this one is plumb. And it turns out the ladder seems moot, now that we've all been educated. Got to love the Railwire :D
Otto
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I put some finishing touches on my VIA FP9A. All it needs now it window glass.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/2507-131018180753.jpeg)
Craig
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Yup, nowdays you have bucket trucks :trollface:
Ummmmm apparently you don't pay much attention to the location of the pole line next to the tracks?
Drasko
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Currently im working on a Union Pacific articulated sleeper using M&R sides on a mix of Kato and Concor cores and roofs. I need to work on the rest of the diaphragms then they're off to paint when i get home.
Pardon the horrible lighting. I don't have many options on the road.
Drasko
[attachimg=1]
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The first Luke Towan Washington Palm. Made mistakes that will be corrected as the process moves along:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1137-131018185441.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=7713)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1137-131018185511.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=7714)
@chuck geiger - considering you work in N I’d say that pretty good. You ought to contact Luke and send him a pic.
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Ummmmm apparently you don't pay much attention to the location of the pole line next to the tracks?
Drasko
You're right, I don't pay close attention to the trackside objects but I do think the pole line was removed and is now under ground after the installation of the commuter line
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Currently im working on a Union Pacific articulated sleeper...
Cool. Which pair? I presume these are from the 1937 car sets for the CoSF or CoLA. Did any of these last past the mid-'50s?
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You're right, I don't pay close attention to the trackside objects but I do think the pole line was removed and is now under ground after the installation of the commuter line
Pole line elimination is ongoing but when removed, isn't buried next the tracks, it's a completely new signal system using coded track circuits. Computer lines, depending on the railroad user about of cab signaling and dc track circuits with fiber lines transmitting data.
For areas where there is still active pole line is usually 40-50' off the track at the edge of the right of way, in the ditch, surrounded by trees, up on cliffs, and so on. We don't have road access to everything so we still climb with gaffs.
Drasko
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Cool. Which pair? I presume these are from the 1937 car sets for the CoSF or CoLA. Did any of these last past the mid-'50s?
I originally bought them for a challenger consist but i think ill be using them in the CoLA. Im modeling 1947 so they were still around then but I'm not sure of the end of their service life.
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ALCO C-425s 804 and 812 returned home today after conversion to sound. Their return will provide more flexibility in assigning locomotives during operating sessions. They are seen here arriving in Chetwynd:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1731-141018032148-7705783.jpeg)
Tim
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CR12 is getting ready for paint:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1925/43494219820_a54d749d48_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1949/43494219990_71dea21302_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1958/43494219550_a4a9e42431_b.jpg)
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Howdy back Wolf, the "it" I was referencing was the ladder, not the pole. Heck, we've all seen lots of leaning poles, even if this one is plumb. And it turns out the ladder seems moot, now that we've all been educated. Got to love the Railwire :D
Otto
Hey Otto --
Gotcha, yeah - the ladder is history. I removed it from the scene yesterday.
You've got that right --- The Railwire is the best -- constructive criticism and education -- that's what it's all about. Helping each other grow.
Wolf
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/medium_53-121018192144.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7683)
Thanks Pete , I never knew how to shrink them . :D
As for all those shots of Marks diesel house . I was not going to include them in my reply to apologize for calling him Tim , but I decided to as a page 2 bone to Mark for my error . I hear all of you :oops: , and usually cull photos not applicable to my comments as I did with his first 3 shots of that other building .
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[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
The FGE 5145/5237 project is nearing completion. I noticed that the couplers were binding with the etched crossover platforms. So back to the drawing board. I settled on the MTL 1019 coupler again - but using the lip to screw into rather than the box as I had done. This extends the coupler out about two feet and clears the crossover. Not totally happy with this solution, but this is the fourth coupler installation I have done on these.
On the plus side, this allows me to use the centered bolster trucks from Atlas to restore the correct truck wheelbase.
I'm homing in on weathering that I'm happy with.
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The first freight car has been delivered to the new furniture warehouse on the branch line of my layout. So new, in fact, that the builder hasn't even installed the windows, doors, or the roof yet! :P
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/1292-141018173622.jpeg)
More on the Seaboard Central 3.0 thread in the Layout Engineering Forum.
DFF
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45598.0;attach=24126;image)
I'm homing in on weathering that I'm happy with.
That weathering looks great Daniel! How did you paint the rust blisters?
md
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Cars were hit with several fade coats. The I stippled Dark Umber artist acrylic from a stiff brush after blotting most of the paint off. I then used a "dark grease wash" which is a combination of artists acrylics, Microscale flat and Tamiya thinner. It has the same basic properties as Ed's Vodka technique.
I also use a rust wash and grime wash where needed. Again, these are a mix of artists acrylics, Microscale flat, Tamiya thinner and zinc (mixing) white.
The cars look better in person. I'll add a few professional photos when the project is done.
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Red letter day on the new layout! I laid the first actual track; 16 sticks of Atlas code 50 representing the first 5 feet of the 8 track west staging yard. This is the lower level staging of my 'nolix' track plan and access will be limited as construction proceeds, so this needed to be done before too much more progress is made in the areas above the staging. Minimum staging track length will be 8 feet. Most of the heavy bench work carpentry work is also complete, with the exception of backdrops and front fascia on a portion of the upper deck and some super robust carpentry that needs to be completed where the the currently continuous roadbed is cut for a couple of bridge locations. I'm pleased with the progress.
Mark, the Nelson shop is outstanding. Is there any selective compression, or is it full size? Either way it's an amazing structure for N scale.
Geoff
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More projects:
I got tired of waiting for Athearn to make an Airslide in Conrail and painted some myself. Decals are custom made using railroad specific fonts.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1945/45329925151_d52a398dd4_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1902/30389809717_07d2cec046_b.jpg)
Weathering is about half done. These cars have fade sprayed and a grease-oil wash applied. They need some chalks to blend everything together. The ends still need some work.
Also worked through some caboose projects.
N5K
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1974/44416909165_e027a08848_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1904/44416909555_5991c8d87e_b.jpg)
This started out as a LL ATSF caboose with the copula cut down and Walthers caboose bays added. The LL model is better than the Atlas for these conversions for two reasons. First, the rivet detail is much smaller and second, the copula is a separate part making this a fairly easy conversion.
Lots of work needs to be done, but it is well on its way.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1945/45329924021_022f7cfb9d_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1944/44416908945_a0c789bfdf_b.jpg)
Conrail N7D class. Basic weathering is done. The roof is in process of getting "environmental fallout" surface rust. This starts with a few rust washes then powdered chalks. I still need to clean up the windows a bit.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1958/45329922801_ddc12a8259_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1908/45329923151_8330e455a6_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1910/45329923501_023c586903_b.jpg)
Classic N4 has seen better days. The once proud Conrail paint has long since given way to rust. I still need to lower this car and add metal wheels and final powdered chalks to blend the roof a little better.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1917/44416908575_ae8327aa59_b.jpg)
Another N4 with lighter weathering. This one has been lowered and metal wheels added. It really makes a difference. Wire grabs will replace the molded on parts.
I know there is some dust and even a little dog hair on the models. I walk to work with these in a small pistol case in my backpack. Once back home they will be washed properly before work starts again.
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Red letter day on the new layout! I laid the first actual track; 16 sticks of Atlas code 50 representing the first 5 feet of the 8 track west staging yard. This is the lower level staging of my 'nolix' track plan and access will be limited as construction proceeds, so this needed to be done before too much more progress is made in the areas above the staging. Minimum staging track length will be 8 feet. Most of the heavy bench work carpentry work is also complete, with the exception of backdrops and front fascia on a portion of the upper deck and some super robust carpentry that needs to be completed where the the currently continuous roadbed is cut for a couple of bridge locations. I'm pleased with the progress.
Mark, the Nelson shop is outstanding. Is there any selective compression, or is it full size? Either way it's an amazing structure for N scale.
Geoff
Congratulations on the milestone Geoff! Have you posted a track plan of you design anywhere? I would be interested in seeing it...
As to the Nelson shops, yes they are quite compressed. Most notably the heavy shop is a single track as opposed to two tracks with a third, isolated track between them and a the stores building is much smaller to fit between the yards A/D tracks and RIP yard. The building heights are 1:1, and lengths about 75%, but it is the width of the heavy shop and stores building where the sq footage is compressed the most.
Have a great week...
md
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More projects:
I got tired of waiting for Athearn to make an Airslide in Conrail and painted some myself. Decals are custom made using railroad specific fonts.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1945/45329925151_d52a398dd4_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1902/30389809717_07d2cec046_b.jpg)
Weathering is about half done. These cars have fade sprayed and a grease-oil wash applied. They need some chalks to blend everything together. The ends still need some work.
Also worked through some caboose projects.
N5K
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1974/44416909165_e027a08848_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1904/44416909555_5991c8d87e_b.jpg)
This started out as a LL ATSF caboose with the copula cut down and Walthers caboose bays added. The LL model is better than the Atlas for these conversions for two reasons. First, the rivet detail is much smaller and second, the copula is a separate part making this a fairly easy conversion.
Lots of work needs to be done, but it is well on its way.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1945/45329924021_022f7cfb9d_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1944/44416908945_a0c789bfdf_b.jpg)
Conrail N7D class. Basic weathering is done. The roof is in process of getting "environmental fallout" surface rust. This starts with a few rust washes then powdered chalks. I still need to clean up the windows a bit.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1958/45329922801_ddc12a8259_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1908/45329923151_8330e455a6_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1910/45329923501_023c586903_b.jpg)
Classic N4 has seen better days. The once proud Conrail paint has long since given way to rust. I still need to lower this car and add metal wheels and final powdered chalks to blend the roof a little better.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1917/44416908575_ae8327aa59_b.jpg)
Another N4 with lighter weathering. This one has been lowered and metal wheels added. It really makes a difference. Wire grabs will replace the molded on parts.
I know there is some dust and even a little dog hair on the models. I walk to work with these in a small pistol case in my backpack. Once back home they will be washed properly before work starts again.
@daniel_leavitt2000 I really like how fine those "rust strokes" are. The small fines one look pretty realistic to me and I MUST know how you made them! The larger ones also look good. Without looking at a proto photo, I would suggest adding "depth" to those larger rust spots by darkening the centers and lightening the edges. It's as easy as adding a dab of raw umber in the center, and slobbing on a more orange in spots. @VonRyan pointed out on a hopper I did a few years ago that my rust spots were large and looked all one color. He was right. I darkened the center and lightened up the edges and it made it look a lot better:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/3/2889-301117093355.jpeg)
It was also cool using oil paints that I got some actual texture by stippling the paint.
When I was making that caboose for @Ed Kapuscinski, I wish I did more of a fade on the blue. To me, parts of it looked strange where the paint looked "too new and clean" to have the level of rust and weathering I applied to it.
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This week's project... no, let me rephrase that... a task that has taken over my MRR life for the past two months has been our club's quarter-scale crossbuck, an attention-getter for train shows. Overall it's been showing its age for a while, but the electronics gave up the ghost at the last show, and I foolishly stepped up to the task of fixing it. Of course, that turned into a complete rebuild and repaint, no good deed goes unpunished.
A pile o' parts after disassembly, awaiting rewiring, cleaning and/or repainting:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_parts.jpg)
Delivered this afternoon to our show venue for this weekend's event:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/crossbuck_done.jpg)
Beautifull job !!!
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I can see that cross buck selling well if sold as a kit and advertised in all the RR mags and Harriet Carter , etc .
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Yes, need more data about crossbuck. Mostly PVC pipe but what are the light holders? Micro Scale crossbuck sign? I need one of these (or should it be two)!
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Worked on a few 1:450 scale projects this past week, the two "biggies" are the GG1 and proof of concept/test with roadbed/tie strips and code 40 rail.
I test painted up the GG1 initial body using some CMR/Netzlof decals they kindly resized to T-scale. I had to hand brush the 3 to make an 8 to keep the number series accurate, 4800's (so one end is not quite a perfect 8). It's only a prototype and needs a few subtle revisions, the final model will have pantographs. Window glass is Krystal Klear. I've been using decal film as well for glass, might try that on the other side and compare. Mechanism is under development, but I can likely make a dummy version and power the passenger cars to push the big motor around even though not very prototypical.
[attachimg=1]
The test track bed is just giving me a little bit of trouble; My process uses two-sided 3M foam mounting tape (.5 in wide, cut to 3mm strips). Ballast rock size is just a bit too large, but workable (especially to the naked eye) but the fine bits of mica or granite or schist or whateaver are making some trouble. I'm trying to mute them with dullcote and chalks. I may try some of the Woodland Scenics fine (or some other very fine ballast) to see if it has the same "sparkley" bits. In any case, it's a vast improvement over the commercial flex and sectional track.[attachimg=2]
I also printed up a Santa Fe intermodal decal set for a 45' van (same scheme was used on the 40' too, from what I can find). These are simply one single decal for the whole side (about 1.5" long). Parked it on the bit of test track. Looks like the tractor had a leak in it's fuel tank!
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Yes, need more data about crossbuck. Mostly PVC pipe but what are the light holders? Micro Scale crossbuck sign? I need one of these (or should it be two)!
The crossbuck was a rebuild of the 20-year-old original, so I don't have all of the how-to details of especially the signage. But I can point everyone in the right direction.
The base is a plastic Christmas tree base with the top cut to fit a 4" PVC shower drain. You can see the 4" to 1-1/2" reducer for the mast, which looks surprisingly good. There is a fabricated bayonet-style mount to separate the mast from the base for transport, but I wouldn't have done it that way. Most of the other Schedule 40 PVC components are obvious except the light housings. Originally they were 4" pipe caps center-drilled for 3/4" pipe, the crosspiece is 1" with reducing tees for the 3/4" nipples to fit the 4" pipe caps. The original pipe caps were too small for the semi-trailer lights (bought from superbrightleds.com), so I rummaged through Menard's plumbing department and found half-round stack caps (Menard's SKU 6896205 (https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/metal-flashing/vent-pipe-cap-for-3-or-4-pipe/43805/p-1444449936459-c-5810.htm)) that resembled the Griswold-style crossing flasher lamp housings. I center-drilled these similarly to the originals, using a "socket saver" bit to get the correct 3/4" OD for Sched 40.
Mounting the lights to the caps was tricky. There were at least a half-dozen tries for something to screw the lights into. The final version was fabricated brackets from 1/2"x1/2" aluminum channel (L-channel would have worked, too), and, as luck would have it, the three screw locations on the lights matched corresponding screw points on the stack caps.
The targets and visors are cut from black 1/16" craft store foam sheet. The original had black styrene for this, it was fragile and we were constantly having to re-glue things. The black foam may not be perfectly flat, but it can take the transport handling. The visors were glued to the rim of the lamps with contact cement (which worked fine with the craft foam, much to my surprise. Contact cement will instantly dissolve pink foam). I think 1/16" black styrene would be better for something that isn't being moved around a lot.
Base is painted a Rustoleum gray, the mast is Rustoleum metallic "bright" silver. I wanted to match the original hammertone silver to cut a week off the process, but the new paint is so much better.
Signs are old-school engraved plastic laminate, the type that uses a router to expose the contrasting under-layer. Used to be common for desk name plates. They are custom, and unmodified from the original. If I had to do them from scratch, the first place I'd try would be a local trophy shop.
The lights have two circuits, taillight dim, and brake light SUPER bright. The bright circuit draws about 350mA, and lights up the entire room. And then some. The taillight circuit is just right, and draws the 10-15mA mentioned previously. Works great with the Circuitron model railroad flasher. For fixed use, I'd power it with a 12VDC wall wart.
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The lights have two circuits, taillight dim, and brake light SUPER bright. The bright circuit draws about 350mA, and lights up the entire room. And then some. The taillight circuit is just right, and draws the 10-15mA mentioned previously. Works great with the Circuitron model railroad flasher. For fixed use, I'd power it with a 12VDC wall wart.
Can you provide the specific manufacturer and part # for the lights?
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Can you provide the specific manufacturer and part # for the lights?
Just this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/truck-lights-lamps/round-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-w-built-in-reflectorized-flange-5-12-led-braketurntail-lights-w-24-high-flux-leds-3-pin-connector/1913/
No other branding on the packaging, no instructions. But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, flange-type taillights have standardized dimensions. My task boiled down to finding the best-looking ones for the project.
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Can you provide the specific manufacturer and part # for the lights?
I'm surprised just like you , Peteski - but check this expert's answer to essentially
the same question:
'I went to the warehouse and took a look at the Bargman Triple Tail Light, part # 47-85-002 and part # 47-84-610.'
Each of the light housings for the LED lights has 16 LEDs. So each of these assemblies has 32 LEDs. With high illumination this assembly would have a draw around .26 amps and at low illumination that draw would be about .02 amps. Since you are replacing the incandescent fixtures on your fifth wheel, these will certainly not draw much and would be brighter than the lights you have.
Al
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Just this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/truck-lights-lamps/round-led-truck-and-trailer-lights-w-built-in-reflectorized-flange-5-12-led-braketurntail-lights-w-24-high-flux-leds-3-pin-connector/1913/
No other branding on the packaging, no instructions. But that's not necessarily a show-stopper, flange-type taillights have standardized dimensions. My task boiled down to finding the best-looking ones for the project.
Thanks Mike!
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Thanks as well, Mike. Looks like I have a new project to work on... :facepalm:
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For you folks outside of Menards' region, the PVC cups for the light housings are Oatey #43805, "Mushroom Vent Cap". HD and Lowes appear not to list it, but I found it on Amazon, eBay, Zoro and Grainger.
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For you folks outside of Menards' region, the PVC cups for the light housings are Oatey #43805, "Mushroom Vent Cap". HD and Lowes appear not to list it, but I found it on Amazon, eBay, Zoro and Grainger.
Lowes does have it: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-PVC-Cap/3340572 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-PVC-Cap/3340572)
So does True Value: https://www.truevalue.com/mushroom-vent-cap (https://www.truevalue.com/mushroom-vent-cap)
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Now that's really interesting to me... our nearby Lowes doesn't carry it, but from your link every other Lowes in the region does. No wonder I couldn't find it right away, apparently once they "assume" a store based on my IP location, searches don't show items that might only be at other stores. Our local Lowes is their smallest in the region and is really suffering with the new (three months) Menards a mile down the street, one of their largest in a new expanded format. The local Lowes has been decreasingly productive for us for construction and layout supplies over the past five years. We can't be alone in noticing it fade away, so I think the local store is a goner.
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Lowes does have it: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-PVC-Cap/3340572 (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-PVC-Cap/3340572)
So does True Value: https://www.truevalue.com/mushroom-vent-cap (https://www.truevalue.com/mushroom-vent-cap)
So one place is $0.94 and the other place is $8.19. Clearance?
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So one place is $0.94 and the other place is $8.19. Clearance?
Probably, but store-specific. Lowes does that. It could be pennies at one store and full price in the next town over. The cap is $9.76 at the closest Lowes to us that has it. :?
I was shopping a discontinued track light fixture on clearance, less than $3 at one store and $6-something at another. I've given up trying to figure it out.
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k.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1910/45329923501_023c586903_b.jpg)
Classic N4 has seen better days. The once proud Conrail paint has long since given way to rust. I still need to lower this car and add metal wheels and final powdered chalks to blend the roof a little better.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1917/44416908575_ae8327aa59_b.jpg)
Another N4 with lighter weathering. This one has been lowered and metal wheels added. It really makes a difference. Wire grabs will replace the molded on parts.
I know there is some dust and even a little dog hair on the models. I walk to work with these in a small pistol case in my backpack. Once back home they will be washed properly before work starts again.
I like that you "shined" the steps
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I haven't had much time for modeling but I got this Northern Pacific Bulkhead Flat done over the last few weeks. It started as a Micro Trains flat car. I added body mount couplers and metal wheels. I used two wood deck kits to get the proper spacing for the deck. The ends and load were scratch built. To finish it, I decaled it and weathered it and added tie down chains. During the building process, these greatly helped:
http://www.nprha.org/NP%20Flat%20Cars/Flat%20Cars%2053%20Ft.%20End%20Racks%2067006-67071.jpg
http://www.nprha.org/Modeling/NP%2067006-67071%20Bulkhead%20Flat%20Cars.pdf#search=Flat%20car
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I found this ME "barrel platform" kit in my junk box. Okay, I need little details here and there.
" ... cement the floor board to the top of the bottom timber..." WTF?
What am I missing here? Any clue what this is supposed to look like?
Otto
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I acquired a number of these gons to bring coal loads over Cajon from Utah to Kaiser Steel in Fontana. They mostly went back empty, but who's to say they didn't score an ocassional scrap load?
Fun stuff,
Otto
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I found this ME "barrel platform" kit in my junk box. Any clue what this is supposed to look like?
(http://images.toytrainheaven.com/www.toytrainheaven.com/255-80174S.jpg)
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That barrel platform is for a bridge, usually found on wood trestles, sometimes on steel. They'd be used to put tie fires out, from steam locos usually, before they could damage the trestle.
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The water barrels are also included with ME Bridge Track. Had to go a ways back just to find a photo since mine broke off. I should get them re-attached now that I'm thinking of it...
(https://i.imgur.com/JNyWSNG.jpg)
https://i.imgur.com/JNyWSNG.jpg
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That barrel platform is for a bridge, usually found on wood trestles, sometimes on steel. They'd be used to put tie fires out, from steam locos usually, before they could damage the trestle.
Duh, now I get it. Thanks guys!
Otto
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I found this ME "barrel platform" kit in my junk box. Okay, I need little details here and there.
" ... cement the floor board to the top of the bottom timber..." WTF?
What am I missing here? Any clue what this is supposed to look like?
Otto
Otto I think this might be to add to the outside of a wooden trestle. Like a fire barrel.
Just thinkin aloud.
Rod.
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I haven't had much time for modeling but I got this Northern Pacific Bulkhead Flat done over the last few weeks.
I'm wondering if that tank might have actually been shipped on a center-depressed flatcar. It looks kinda "high and wide" loadish to me. Nice job on everything, tho.
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A Yard Out of Time!
I am in the process of building 2 side by side staging yards for my revamped PRSL layout. I thought I was pretty smart when I acquired 2 boxes of old AMI roadbed to start the yards. That stuff was great! You could slap it down on plywood and it would stay in place without nails. Then you could slap the track down and it also would stay in place and hold alignment without nails.
I used it on the double ended yard on my old layout (see photo). The remnants of it (single sided) live on as the Camden Pavonia yard on my current PRSL layout.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rnTssKu7_iDmv9FCkBdrJ8JUBrjdUDLhFx6yOW-XstjxV_DZRv-LkDqJzeYvF8FJfi-eqWljB4wHAL8wOPmQqceRDTaby4cag8OKYGMcAtExXT3ONON7ZRmx8URluSLZbN637vgk3sbio1uTNJy5bB_rquUzXwou0NerUghrclIAMIjOhzkdXQdPc8I_FvgcUXUOwjlBRaS4b2mGvH9UgFd_oGJTuVz4O5aTmmlIWpKljU2fjIkM9WDuRzazGhPZ4wejkiAmgifvpkh5OGyNFSumNhAAf830tQVNCuEYq65VThwNUWt1hgcCzwQxEOZY4H0iPm9NYB4qFwRumVadCV1M1B45G6RSRU_HzjPSOuRocKQd8lM1cTI29GpkFJN8yGB4jrPUsAA_5LWKmqNQ_uqMhwyI7RQr0SD6PjQPUx9E5eTVFvft6GW-H7Em5UpbG6Xyh72hU7LFoqLrD9vLmqXgTh4GlPtThZrjRgim-AY_fXoEJOOZ4GXgAEZkPTrpaGBCWI20dFue8YYaFcw1zxTEpGnL1UbYDkSbPN19TH2TRdJb0CeaTLQkPsi3Uey4SxmtauKgDcn22Qg5tXXXt7UiHPaeLwJRm-DRlDiO1jfAL-u3pdGeD4UQGOsiJslIh9Rn2N-dSRLxQX9EyAtqMylIA-3LpvLgwImLm-F5UtDVePKabYWBxBHw=w1238-h928-no)
Alas time has taken its toll. AMI has been out of business for 15-20 years and the surviving product has dried out. It is still sticky on both sides but not enough to stay in place or hold the track in alignment. (At least it is sticky enough that I won’t have to use glue for the cinders and ground cover.).
I completed the 4 track north end staging yard (capacity: 114 40’ cars) which holds the coal, sand, and tank drags and the Philadelphia transfer with ease (30 to 50 car trains). Now I need to begin on the south end 5 terminus yard tracks. The capacity will actually be less since the yard needs to be double ended to permit the prototypical run-around out and back train movements.
Time to go back to cork! (I miss live AMI roadbed!)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0pOqoXuDjRxznCmssHl_8eTh_SJ2iClXov7IemtABN1cmCQcBk_JEOm6xM-v--L_kB9kNlD411U3-tT2Nc29xxqB_TuDBvJAiHI39YsrTHfIcEDZ8qPxVDsVIl7WWFmlDiJqiTc9SBh7Onh7P5Oq3gj-RKh47lvZLMU_OA7Me9-kiLRgt5watYKVqYxVu0GFqABqQqGLuaOpGHRCCFmSWxe-DRYgbxeVttCY8eBQrdUHWgvmpC5dnbL-MuQHvVxJP3OB1Kbj_8pWM7qFoPU2UEtlEOHb_uoOtKJOHlVAifFWGebXhdPQNrmgDwBDCkP8_H-ie_uIWxZadGmLVsQ8q-GfGntumFHtzVMjbarG4gQNAhdcM48-H0lrogAi6brP4I-xNRhXXNFpBSwE9IYRQVi4d8-wUfjdAX73QW84Uk9SxiNFWPEV8dGUdySkQoPr2GXdSpHiepKcxDeolwpCPm8gBA8jMERmo21SCFn4z4a7skJrWZB2aYrGHLAKB1YSaA2gzFQoeK5OL3d9uzic_EjLczK_YT3h9A_GpxZO4awNibhgsCAJKlBO579PsvAEjIK441ymUbx04EVJxwuIGZ2U19mRbRs_yUA7iUKcLa8g8oOAKd7HO1in-Dfg-f11nrrksfeM8edj1rE8QoPilBOI_XoyGMNisEKgZf_b0LGuFwowmmQC5vSc=w1543-h367-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kmhqoMS8gH-VjsmJogd2RrwZ4e4IXcQgY8Ba9AFPsyWrGaXZy6hwQhKWiczsNq9SX5jsmMdDrqTKV8cbVHrM_l0u7eUX_8mNHXrbG_rog-zYCdG9P2oJdTwSbpG-VCYanOYgkKwpWTmPP3TviQdWsObsTd0_gYfCzcYiR3XL-3oqgHWsj778TXWdgLFQsmg5Z0ZgKyZ2vMwE1xNuS3-o_vSPWXNYH9vK7qdJJoHh_k-nGiDj9Fdqh5OA5xbFbtrbCTJahdktuqoyHIENmoUhZfhCQbAFZag-igdM3jE3V6lell8o5Zo3MPXG9_LEBi31b260_uEChhXlfIXXljY1H7tmt19JNENS_KE7l22YNTHNNVE22yV0ECo5dQ0pvI0mmO5mwOyLLm8kT4AiJtfcYTbGY_e3V2Kb31cp-8UjLZCr53wTPoJ3w6XAHXy_sb_wr8kHt12dBZSrcqQLBQp8mYghU0Jq5xvRDKjzzq20N4SX4sJ4vTRR4lCFG5NcImD2yh2YvmE7AylKHMD4y16ceHZbKAW0GKpn0Pezz_aAkB3hf_2nNLOisgW9pD6ynazAQwjwsLlrT3g30fLOukkkC5uBqvI9Qovd16nFqZ1DD67pWPGZsHCPzMJKNGqrbrcUJjk3wCNZKy3WdjcILAe70vDH7RCDXkCkXiXIQtev7PVNhLsbYJ8_8TUv=w1543-h805-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/syBEOqI4gjlgStf8n1H97qrofiXp7H7FKe_FYRFaOEwfql5l6B1UqWvTZjtdIkrxCQs5KHnsSmsV62Ko7jW58YT9MpczeQQ0VdK-xAuJY4Bnr5GOPo40RViuVF_HwmH5RXtTGM2qsBL5Y8vIxrPznXwx-_2Xx3vNDLuhrlMRZ0KoWDLwkF7xqP0cfh9TSa5iuJ1nhMHuK4WLXcZpIjkceAnLJM8MpLbxGugHrvrUGK5uVd5pXgYVWI-hik5qedADnculKVTMgHDPDWomytgoA7CUg03CTjTuJZ0FGucDc8DQGyvCk99FQV3I1NNVwbDCuwM6TaIgfABkUHtXy-R_yFaF1KlggskXSAvAi-nY-nNdQcFVZ4YwQ2EJjLfq1Yw_IxcwmQaabcUJpuxcnJCdpNXzSrEdrZRY9C8lxUj24GP99EBT5j7KSWRDgkUijJMR2n8GKT13aFp86Te6OT8qOF5ABE9Jf0x9vMGiaFCsQhT6WnzF1JIOvvH8JHVM5cuWJDK2N2cULDxsNEyOlwwC1kpeQ3av5Seg1ZKNWElN5SxaCzS1JhYhO2JMhfkiNuK2b6HQOtsuT8lqE5uSNi1PXq0Ix_G8erffDEYveoOEwgAxaRAiCxquoCnSL3gXjpvbVVOXwMFXmvZpF77OtUkg8DNqGrL5OsyfBbSY5jhUy4pLbU_KHb6MCXSh=w1543-h499-no)
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Finally got my model building to a point I can post something. A bunch of the parts to other out buildings are inside the barn. I did spend some time making straw that I will put in rows in a field. I also dipped some pieces of cork in glue and then the straw. I have to do another layer then pat them down to make them more rectangular. Right now they look more like little balls of straw.
[attach=1]
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Time to go back to cork! (I miss live AMI roadbed!)
I am probably not remembering this correctly, but was AMI roadbed the one that was double sided neoprene or butyl foam tape? If so, you might try an industrial tape supplier. I never used it for roadbed, but used a black foam double sided tape on displays and sets that (IIRC) we bought from our 3M rep. It was sticky and flexible, but also remove-able. (assuming you removed it in a few hours)
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I'm wondering if that tank might have actually been shipped on a center-depressed flatcar. It looks kinda "high and wide" loadish to me. Nice job on everything, tho.
Thanks for the compliments. You are probably right for most roads but the Erie was known for high and wide.
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Take a sample of the AMI roadbed to an HVAC company that does installation and service even if it is dried out.
If I recall, the material is tape used to seal ductwork.
Charlie Vlk
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A Yard Out of Time!
old AMI roadbed to start the yards
https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-AMI-Instant-Track-Roadbed-30-Foot-Roll-New-In-Box/153220407151?hash=item23aca5df6f:g:3DgAAOSwgTJbIwQO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-Instant-Roadbed-Model-Train-Ho-N-O-Scale-Unused-30-Foot/192689939606?hash=item2cdd372496:g:RbwAAOSwP~lbsRhe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-ARR-30-Instant-Road-Bed-2-Box-Lot-O-HO-N-Double-Up-2-For-O-Cut-For-N/232915779506?hash=item363adcbfb2:g:O0YAAOSwxblbNSj9
not mine...just came across these when googling AMI
Gary
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-AMI-Instant-Track-Roadbed-30-Foot-Roll-New-In-Box/153220407151?hash=item23aca5df6f:g:3DgAAOSwgTJbIwQO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-Instant-Roadbed-Model-Train-Ho-N-O-Scale-Unused-30-Foot/192689939606?hash=item2cdd372496:g:RbwAAOSwP~lbsRhe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-ARR-30-Instant-Road-Bed-2-Box-Lot-O-HO-N-Double-Up-2-For-O-Cut-For-N/232915779506?hash=item363adcbfb2:g:O0YAAOSwxblbNSj9
not mine...just came across these when googling AMI
Gary
Man, that is some seriously small text!
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-AMI-Instant-Track-Roadbed-30-Foot-Roll-New-In-Box/153220407151?hash=item23aca5df6f:g:3DgAAOSwgTJbIwQO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-Instant-Roadbed-Model-Train-Ho-N-O-Scale-Unused-30-Foot/192689939606?hash=item2cdd372496:g:RbwAAOSwP~lbsRhe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-ARR-30-Instant-Road-Bed-2-Box-Lot-O-HO-N-Double-Up-2-For-O-Cut-For-N/232915779506?hash=item363adcbfb2:g:O0YAAOSwxblbNSj9
not mine...just came across these when googling AMI
Gary
Fixed it for you!
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Scenic Express sells a product called Black Tack Track for O Scale. It is (ostensibly) the same uncured butyl rubber that AMI once marketed. You can cut it down to N Scale width. The price is listed as $42.95 for a 2 1/2" wide 30 Ft. length of the stuff.
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Quote from: glakedylan on Today at 10:12:11 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-AMI-Instant-Track-Roadbed-30-Foot-Roll-New-In-Box/153220407151?hash=item23aca5df6f:g:3DgAAOSwgTJbIwQO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-Instant-Roadbed-Model-Train-Ho-N-O-Scale-Unused-30-Foot/192689939606?hash=item2cdd372496:g:RbwAAOSwP~lbsRhe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMI-ARR-30-Instant-Road-Bed-2-Box-Lot-O-HO-N-Double-Up-2-For-O-Cut-For-N/232915779506?hash=item363adcbfb2:g:O0YAAOSwxblbNSj9
not mine...just came across these when googling AMI
Gary
Trainwolf (ebay) is the guy I got my 2 boxes from (used 52' [~ 2 boxes] to do the 4 track north yard).
The stuff costs $12-$15 per box just to ship.
Miss the days you could get it at a local hobby shop!
The N scale version is 1/8" deep (matches cork roadbed). The HO version 3/16" deep.
30' per box sounds like a lot but yards and double tracked mainlines eat it up in a hurry.
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Fixed it for you!
thx Dave! do not know why it came through that size
i simply clipped and pasted
appreciate the fixing
sincerely
Gary
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thx Dave! do not know why it came through that size
i simply clipped and pasted
appreciate the fixing
sincerely
Gary
That is interesting Gary. Looking at your post the links you posted had tags which made them text 2 points in size (tiny). Another member here ( @sirenwerks ) has a similar problem with text in some of his posts randomly changing size. Maybe we can get to the bottom of it.
How did you create that post? On a computer (Windows or MAC) or on a smart phone (iPhone or Android)?
What exactly did you cut/paste those links from?
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That is interesting Gary. Looking at your post the links you posted had tags which made them text 2 points in size (tiny). Another member here ( @sirenwerks ) has a similar problem with text in some of his posts randomly changing size. Maybe we can get to the bottom of it.
How did you create that post? On a computer (Windows or MAC) or on a smart phone (iPhone or Android)?
What exactly did you cut/paste those links from?
I think I found the culprit.
It's the 'Toggle View' button (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/Themes/default/images/bbc/toggle.gif) that's below the "Change Color" drop down. If it's clicked and you paste from something like Word, it adds the small font size tags.
Jason
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I think I found the culprit.
It's the 'Toggle View' button (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/Themes/default/images/bbc/toggle.gif) that's below the "Change Color" drop down. If it's clicked and you paste from something like Word, it adds the small font size tags.
Jason
Interesting . . .
There is a "remove formatting" button next to it. I have never used either function.
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Interesting . . .
There is a "remove formatting" button next to it. I have never used either function.
For the people having issues, they should go to their profile 'look and layout' settings and see if "Show WYSIWYG editor on post page by default." has a check mark.
Jason
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Time to go back to cork! (I miss live AMI roadbed!)
I don't know if you'd find it useful, but another possible source of foam tape in gray or black, is the folks who install camper shells on pickup trucks.
You may have to trim it to width. i think it's about 2" wide, maybe 2.5". But it's quite sticky. I'm just not sure if it's sticky on both sides.
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Getting back to poles and how people climbed them:
In my youth around the Washington DC area, most of the "telephone poles" in my area had L-shaped metal steps sticking out on either side, of assist in climbing. They were about 1" diameter rod, sticking out about a foot and turned up on their ends about 2" or 3". The lowest ones to the ground were up high enough to keep little kids from climbing the poles (and getting electrocuted). But, as I grew up, it was a "thing" to be able to jump high enough to grab the lowest step and pull yourself up to them. However, in those days, people old enough to do that were apparently old enough to know not to climb higher. I think those steps disappeared before I reached 21, but I am not sure exactly when. Strangely, I have not noticed those steps on the signal wire poles in old photographs of trackside lines, so maybe they never were put on those poles?
Any illumination about when and where such steps would be appropriate additions to my models of the early 1950s would be appreciated.
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Getting back to poles and how people climbed them:
In my youth around the Washington DC area, most of the "telephone poles" in my area had L-shaped metal steps sticking out on either side, of assist in climbing. They were about 1" diameter rod, sticking out about a foot and turned up on their ends about 2" or 3". The lowest ones to the ground were up high enough to keep little kids from climbing the poles (and getting electrocuted). But, as I grew up, it was a "thing" to be able to jump high enough to grab the lowest step and pull yourself up to them. However, in those days, people old enough to do that were apparently old enough to know not to climb higher. I think those steps disappeared before I reached 21, but I am not sure exactly when. Strangely, I have not noticed those steps on the signal wire poles in old photographs of trackside lines, so maybe they never were put on those poles?
Any illumination about when and where such steps would be appropriate additions to my models of the early 1950s would be appreciated.
Residential areas in the 5 boroughs of the rotten apple had them , but not all . I would think it is a cost to install vs saved man hours because no ladder needed to be put up .
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Residential areas in the 5 boroughs of the rotten apple had them , but not all . I would think it is a cost to install vs saved man hours because no ladder needed to be put up .
Now days everyone has bucket trucks so they don't need to climb poles. If I remember correctly those steps were spread out to the point you can reach the next one by hand. The climber used them as an assist to the spikes they wore on their shoes, not as the only thing needed to climb the poles.
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[size=78%]Maybe we can get to the bottom of it.[/size]
How did you create that post? On a computer (Windows or MAC) or on a smart phone (iPhone or Android)?
What exactly did you cut/paste those links from?
Pete....thx
used pc / chrome
copied web address with control c from the window in upper ribbon in chrome
then did a control v into a quoted post/reply here
each address was done individually
did not attempt to format text in any way
again, thx
Gary
p.s. my fingers on a cellphone? never going to happen. too small to ever get the correct letter
;-)
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Pete....thx
used pc / chrome
copied web address with control c from the window in upper ribbon in chrome
then did a control v into a quoted post/reply here
each address was done individually
did not attempt to format text in any way
again, thx
Gary
That is odd - it doesn't seem that you did anything unusual which would change the font size. What is even stranger now is seeing a text resize tag (which is actually visible as plain text) in the quote of my post you included in your post. It shows that the first sentence of my post you quoted tagged to be rendered at 78% of the default size. Weird!
Maybe, like Jason mentioned, you should check your account 'look and layout' settings and see if "Show WYSIWYG editor on post page by default." has a check mark.
-
Getting back to poles and how people climbed them:
In my youth around the Washington DC area, most of the "telephone poles" in my area had L-shaped metal steps sticking out on either side, of assist in climbing. They were about 1" diameter rod, sticking out about a foot and turned up on their ends about 2" or 3". The lowest ones to the ground were up high enough to keep little kids from climbing the poles (and getting electrocuted). But, as I grew up, it was a "thing" to be able to jump high enough to grab the lowest step and pull yourself up to them. However, in those days, people old enough to do that were apparently old enough to know not to climb higher. I think those steps disappeared before I reached 21, but I am not sure exactly when. Strangely, I have not noticed those steps on the signal wire poles in old photographs of trackside lines, so maybe they never were put on those poles?
Any illumination about when and where such steps would be appropriate additions to my models of the early 1950s would be appreciated.
I was in Manchester, NH around Bartlett St. yesterday and I noticed that the utility poles still had those climbing steps. And there were 2 different types. One pole had the L-shaped steps, while the other pole had the steps that looked like large nails. And this is 2018! Ed's Rule applies again.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/2700-211018221927-77801926.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/7/2700-211018221927-77801685.jpeg)
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I was in Manchester, NH around Bartlet St. yesterday and I noticed that the utility poles still had those climbing steps. And there were 2 different types.
Did you happen to notice any other types of poles here:
(https://s3-media1.fl.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/O4hYX10M_MHaGHgfeaWFpg/o.jpg)
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Did you happen to notice any other types of poles here:
(https://s3-media1.fl.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/O4hYX10M_MHaGHgfeaWFpg/o.jpg)
Why yes, that was the destination for that visit! :D That's where I get my Polish goodies.