TheRailwire
General Discussion => Product Discussion => Topic started by: Ed Kapuscinski on June 01, 2016, 10:11:15 PM
-
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-N-1769201-SDP40F-Amtrak-p/kat-1769201.htm
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-N-1769202-SDP40F-Amtrak-p/kat-1769202.htm
Anyone have their hands on one yet? Thoughts? Impressions?
I'm not expecting any surprises with them, but then again, that's why they're surprises.
-
Yup. Got mine today. It's nice.
-
Got the Southwest Limited set also. Equally nice. The blue in the Antrak stripes is fully opaque this time around, compared to some previous Amtrak passenger releases.
-
Any idea what decoder will fit in it?
Cheers,
Brian
-
Nope. I assume whatever is valid for the SD40-2, since I believe it is the same mechanism.
I take some of it back regarding the passenger car decos. It is opaque. But it is the inkjet process rather than tamped inks, albeit far better done than previous inkjet deco'd Kato models.
-
Got notification that mine would be shipping out today. Watched the pre-production video that Kato has on their website and the mech is not the same as the dash-2's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIX4Afw5ljE&list=UUD4u4KFbkn_IJ3Rds7a9XSQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIX4Afw5ljE&list=UUD4u4KFbkn_IJ3Rds7a9XSQ) he removed the shell around the 3 minute mark if your impatient like I am.
Digitrax decoder selector says the DN163KA4 fits this which is the same as the Kato N Scale Glacier Express and 4-8-4 FEF Steam Locomotive if I read their handy little chart correctly. TCS shows a K7D4. So not the same as the SD40-2's. Of which I had 2 lying around waiting for me to paint the locos I will be putting them in. Oh well. I'll just have to be a bit more patient to get decoders for these. But it will be nice to have something in Phase I paint other than an E's running around the layout.
-
These really hurt to pass up but I'm going to have to. Extra difficult be because I remember riding behind these as a child in the 70's and one of my first (HO) trains was an Athearn Amtrak with these engines.
-
These really hurt to pass up but I'm going to have to. Extra difficult be because I remember riding behind these as a child in the 70's and one of my first (HO) trains was an Athearn Amtrak with these engines.
Aww come on Russ, sound equipped SDP40F's are only $250 a piece. I just took out a second mortgage on my home to buy power and cars for my Coast Starlight train..... what's wrong with you? :facepalm:
-
Aww come on Russ, sound equipped SDP40F's are only $250 a piece. I just took out a second mortgage on my home to buy power and cars for my Coast Starlight train..... what's wrong with you? :facepalm:
But some of us don't own houses. Of course, if I did I'd have done the same. ;)
-
Any idea what decoder will fit in it?
Cheers,
Brian
For non sound TCS K7D4 drops right on.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
-
Mine are on the way too. Didn't really need them but they were such a staple of my teenage railfanning days back in the mid 70's I had to have them. Should be plenty of room for a Loksound Select and speaker,(if I had known they were going to offer such when I reserved I would have just waited but too late now.) Maybe pick up a Ph. II scheme with sound when they're released.
Bob
-
Nope. I assume whatever is valid for the SD40-2, since I believe it is the same mechanism.
Shouldnt be... SDP40Fs are longer. I may pick one up for my Hilltopper/Mountaineer... rooftop issues notwithstanding.
-
Robbman, what are the roof issues with the SDP40F?
-
Mine are on the way too. Didn't really need them but they were such a staple of my teenage railfanning days back in the mid 70's I had to have them. Should be plenty of room for a Loksound Select and speaker,(if I had known they were going to offer such when I reserved I would have just waited but too late now.) Maybe pick up a Ph. II scheme with sound when they're released.
Bob
You'll need a select micro. Standard select will be too large.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
-
One came to visit Windsor St today. It was very fetching.
-
You'll need a select micro. Standard select will be too large.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
Thanks Kelley, ya I meant a micro. The postman just dropped mine off 15 minutes ago and I haven't had a chance to dig into them yet. Will be curious to see how Kato does the sound installs.
Bob
-
Where are the undecs?
-
Mr. Postman dropped off mine today. Well, one of them. Closer to them hitting the shelves I got over my "but the road numbers are consecutive" phobia and ordered the other phase I road number from another online dealer. It didn't disappoint for sure. Not planning on putting DCC in for a while since I emptied the modeling budget for a few months(ok, several months) buying them (and another online find). It ran like the average Kato diesel locomotive. Very well. Concerning the post mentioning the roof details. I'm guessing it's due to the fans being molded plastic still like on most other N scale locomotives and some finer details left off. Lift rings, etc. The paint matched my Amtrak Phase I E8A nicely. I'd like to find a E8/9B shell in Amtrak Phase I but I've a undec that I can paint if need be. The National Limited, which ran through the area I model, seemed to have a SDP40 and an E8/9B unit often. As well as other combinations too until banished from Conrail sometime in 1977. I'm very pleased with it and looking forward to running a pair of them around. Well worth the wait. I hope they sell well for Kato.
-
Those E8B units you saw probably were converted head-end-power cars, as the SDP40 couldn't provide HEP to the older Heritage cars.
-
Concerning the post mentioning the roof details. I'm guessing it's due to the fans being molded plastic still like on most other N scale locomotives and some finer details left off. Lift rings, etc.
Knowing @Robbman (from his posts) the issue is more then just the usual compromises manufacturers make.
Comparing Photos of the Kato model with Phase I Prototypes the main discrepancy that stands out to me is height of the Exhaust Silencer.
http://www.katousa.com/N/SDP40F/photos/SDP40F_Quarter.jpg
Notice how it is considerably taller in this proto shot.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2332269
I'll admit it is a small discrepancy and is easily fixed however.
-
I hope they sell well for Kato.
From Looking at MBK since they got posted on Wednesday, yeah I think they have a hit.
-
Saw them at Klein's today--pretty nice PW (pre weathering). Been waiting on these for years and years--I think Intermountain did these way back when and I missed them. Just a little while longer till the DCC equipped versions are shipped in August. :D
-
Bryan: The last year I was in Washington state, 1978, the new F40s came through Pasco on the Empire Builder towing ex E8/9A steam generator cars, because the new units couldn't supply steam for the unconverted cars still in use on that run.
-
I can't really justify owning one of these, but they are really impressive looking. I did some very quick research and saw that they were only ever owned by Amtrak, AT&SF, and one BNSF. Admittedly I could be wrong. EDIT: I see there was an EMD demo scheme and a Maersk Sealand scheme. The video shows the notches in the front of the chassis which surely means the AT&SF units are on the way.
Amtrak sales must be good for Kato to produce a loco with such limited paint scheme possibilities. A positive sign indeed.
-
For non sound TCS K7D4 drops right on.
Always been a fan of TCS, but their price hike is insane.
I hope NCE produces a cheaper decoder for the SDP40F.
Javier
-
mecgp7: Very few owners, and a limited nationwide service period, but during that time they were almost everywhere. The market isn't limited to just Amtrak and ATSF modelers, unlike most freight locomotives, which didn't go far from home rails.
-
I was going to go back and edit my post, but i think it's better to just leave it...
My comment on the roofline stemmed from designing the Kaslo models and doing ALL the phases and options (and ATSF SDP40F-2) (has it been a decade... jeez o flip)... anyway... there's nothing really wrong with the roofline. Yes, I repeat, there's nothing really wrong with the roofline for an as delivered 500-539 (other than the typical N scale stuff).
It wasn't until after the second order and later arrived (flat nose) that all the low-profile rooftop components from those orders started getting swapped over to the Phase Is indiscriminately...
-
Wow, Sold out at MBK.
-
Wow, Sold out at MBK.
They have more inbound.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
-
Buy them and they'll build more! 8)
I'm really glad that, while I have gathered all the parts needed, I never got started on my foob SDP40F kitbash. Now I can have the real McCoy, and much better quality than what I would have built. Thanks Kato (and Kelley, as I suspect that you were involved in this project).
Looks like another winner for Kato (but was there ever any doubt that these would sell like hotcakes?). :D
-
Way beyond my time period but considering how many times they were on the head end on my trips Between Charleston,SC and Alexandria,VA I may have to get at least one. Now if they just come out with the proper cars used on the Florida trains.
-
I got over my "but the road numbers are consecutive" phobia and ordered the other phase I road number from another online dealer.
I take this opportunity to invoke Ed's Law: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/amtk/amtk526cwa.jpg
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6099724509/in/album-72157627405179426/
Darn close: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6097262246/in/album-72157627405179426/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ck4049/6102599909/in/album-72157627405179426/
-
I did kitbash a pair, years ago, from Atlas SD50s chassis, cheap Life-Like F40s, a lot of styrene, some paper, and graphic "striping tape". Not too bad, but I have a pair of Katos coming. I figured, back then, that if I ever wanted one, I'd better build it myself.
At the time the only 70s cowl units I had were four W&R brass F45s, on Kato SD40 chassis, because the originals wouldn't stay on the track. Ran nice, on straight track, but wouldn't take any curves. Trucks swiveled fine, never did find the problem. But the repowered units ran perfectly with my Kato SD40s & 45s.
-
Thanks Robbman!
I'll say that I think I have seen some photos showing the 500-539 series units in consecutive of closely numbered (like just 1 or 2 numbers apart) pairs. So far I've seen photos showing this group assigned to the Chief/Super Chief/Southwest Limited, Texas Chief/Lone Star, and the Sunset Limited. I'd guess the San Diegans got these as well, since I think they were based out of LA for maintenance.
Here is a shot with 535 and 533-
http://www.railpixs.com/amt2/AMT530_SunsetLtd_HoustonTx_May78.jpg
The higher 500's and 600's with the flat noses showed up just about everywhere else it seems.
-
How long did they run on ATSF?
-
How long did they run on ATSF?
1984-2002 (if you include BNSF, too).
-
squirrelhunter: Odd. I have a picture, in the 1978/1979 Amtrak Annual, of the same 535/533 combination on the Empire Builder. Same paint, so about the same time, but certainly not the same train or location. Did they assign units in pairs, and keep the pairs together regardless of what train they were on?
-
The shell is a small pain to take off front of the mech, there are 4 small tabs that hold the shell on the mech similar to the F40PH. The front tab hold the window plastic and the back just the shell. You need to wedge two small screw drivers or exacto blades under the window plastic inside the front of the shell to take it off, the back just need a little spreading. If you are installing DCC, put some kraptom tape on the outside of the motor tabs since there is very little wiggle room between the side of the frame and the tabs.
-
Quite happy with how heavy it is. At first I thought it might actually be heavier than the Athearn FP45, but it's similar. At any rate, glad Kato isn't using a lighter alloy. (Can't wait for the freight version.)
-
Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Bart
-
Kato USA Tech Corner N SDP40F First Look right around 2:55 he starts describing the shell removal procedure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIX4Afw5ljE&list=UUD4u4KFbkn_IJ3Rds7a9XSQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIX4Afw5ljE&list=UUD4u4KFbkn_IJ3Rds7a9XSQ)
Edit: well crud...... watched it again(it's been a while since I have) and all it shows is the guy moving the rear handrails out of the way. The next thing you see in the video is a bit of unseen magic and the chassis sans shell. So it wasn't that helpful after all. My apologies. I thought it more helpful than it really was.
-
UPDATE - I figured it out.
What an adventure!
Just kept poking toothpicks and other stuff in various places and eventually found the secret "sweet spots". Wasn't sure whether the black plastic piece that goes around the bottom on the shell was supposed to come off ( it's not....but you do need to release one end of one of the rear handrails before removing the shell). Once I guessed that the black piece stays with the frame, I then knew that the toothpicks and other stuff had to be inserted between the edge of the shell and the black plastic piece.
Removing the shell is definitely not for the faint of heart...
But it is a great locomotive :)
Thanks,
Bart
-
No video... but...
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa303/nscaler711/temporary_zpsl8usdvej.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/nscaler711/media/temporary_zpsl8usdvej.jpg.html)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa303/nscaler711/temporary_zps7n23kt3r.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/nscaler711/media/temporary_zps7n23kt3r.jpg.html)
use guitar pick/ cellphone disassembly picks to get beneath the window glazing on both sides of the cab, and one pick at the rear of the engineers side...
I do not suggest using tooth picks... use something flat and as soft as the plastic shell..
I'm getting ready to do the full teardown write up tonight...
-
Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Bart
The answer was on reply 37 :D
-
Thank you, Sundowner and NScaler711. I got my pair today, and they run like a Kato (of course...). They'll have to be renumbered, as I need 530-539 for the EB/NCH, so the shell will have to come off.
My one disappointment was the coupling distance. I know, they have to be able to take sharper curves than mine, and I expected to change the couplers. But, 1015s couple at the same distance as the Kato couplers, and don't fit well, at least on mine. Changing them is easy. Pull the clips out, remove the Kato coupler and spring, insert the 1015, replace the clip. But the current 1015 is just a little too thick, and the clip won't seat fully. First good tug and the coupler falls off. Tapping the hole in the frame and screwing the 1015 on worked fine, and it was at the right height.
The Kato couplers didn't seem to mate well with my ancient 1025s, which are so old they still say "Kadee", but worked and looked fine otherwise, so I left the one 1015 on the front of that unit, and the other three Katos as-is. That way I can couple the pair to any passenger car I have, as my cars have a variety of couplers and mounts.
-
Nkalanaga, this take MT 2004 like the F40PH and ACS64.
-
Nkalanaga, this take MT 2004 like the F40PH and ACS64.
2004s will be too high, as on other recent models. The right conversion is 1015 shanks in a 2004 box. (Yes, this costs more.) On some models you can cut the coupler box larger and just use 1015s but it appears that this would be a bad idea on the SDP40F.
It's sort of infuriating that Kato and MT cannot seem to cooperate on easy conversions. MT even made the 2004 for Kato locos and then Kato had to go change things again.
-
2004s will be too high, as on other recent models. The right conversion is 1015 shanks in a 2004 box. (Yes, this costs more.) On some models you can cut the coupler box larger and just use 1015s but it appears that this would be a bad idea on the SDP40F.
It's sort of infuriating that Kato and MT cannot seem to cooperate on easy conversions. MT even made the 2004 for Kato locos and then Kato had to go change things again.
You'd think the 1015 inners in a 2004 box would be a coupler set from MTL by now
-
You'd think the 1015 inners in a 2004 box would be a coupler set from MTL by now
MTL sells them un-assemble its call the 2003.
http://micro-trainsline.com/00102015?filter_name=2003
-
Thank you, and I might need that 2003 someday, but my set with one 2015 will work fine. I tested it on a train with almost every coupler and mounting I have, and one end or the other worked fine on every car. Since the coupling distance is almost the same either way, there's no point changing, and the Kato couplers do look better.
As for taking it apart, even with the instructions, the first unit took about ten minutes. The second took under a minute. I used a narrow chisel blade in my Xacto knife, and it went very quickly, as long as I got the blade between the window glass and the frame, rather than between the glass and the shell. Slide it in, stick a strip of styrene in next to the blade, do the next corner, and so on.
Putting it back together was a little tedious, but the hardest part was the cab windows. They don't just pop in, and they don't slide in, either side first or windshield first. The only way I could get them in was to stick the windshield glass THROUGH the opening, so it stuck out over the hood, then rotate the glass until the side windows seated. At that point, the windshield was also in place, and it was done. Again, the first unit was trial and error, the second went back together very easily.
-
Why did you have to remove the cab windows? In most Kato locos those are fairly permanently installed and do not pop out during disassembly.
-
So that I could Dullcote the body after renumbering it. If I hadn't renumbered it, I wouldn't have taken it apart at all. The model numbers were assigned to the ATSF in Barstow, while I needed a pair for the BN trains, assigned to Havre.
The couplers can be changed, either by using the right one, or by screwing on a 1015, without taking anything apart except the coupler retaining clip.
Yes, I noticed that there was no danger of the windows falling out. Getting them out was the problem.
-
Need some help please on exactly how to remove the shell so I can install a decoder. No exploded diagram on Kato's site, and not quite sure where the 4 tabs are that hold the shell on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Bart
In addition to the instructions already posted here, TCS has a nice step-by step decoder install pictorial (which includes disassemble).
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/N_Scale/Kato/EMD SDP40F/EMD_SDP40F_K7D4.php (http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/N_Scale/Kato/EMD SDP40F/EMD_SDP40F_K7D4.php)
Looks like this model only has 2 (not 4) retaining tabs. Kato often does that in their locos. The E8 and P42 also only have 2 tabs.
-
Looks like this model only has 2 (not 4) retaining tabs. Kato often does that in their locos. The E8 and P42 also only have 2 tabs.
It has four tabs, two on each side.
TCS took off more than needed be taken off the shell, The light assembly does not need to be remove from the shell to install the decoder, kind like other Kato units.
Also you need to insulate the outside of the motor tabs because they will make contact with the frame.
-
So that I could Dullcote the body after renumbering it. If I hadn't renumbered it, I wouldn't have taken it apart at all. The model numbers were assigned to the ATSF in Barstow, while I needed a pair for the BN trains, assigned to Havre.
The couplers can be changed, either by using the right one, or by screwing on a 1015, without taking anything apart except the coupler retaining clip.
Yes, I noticed that there was no danger of the windows falling out. Getting them out was the problem.
I went with the 1015 also, after ready what other had wrote here, there is plenty of space for 1015 and the 1015 coupler box do fill the gaping hole in the pilot.
-
It has four tabs, two on each side.
You're right - I was looking at the picture on a small screen and didn't notice the rear latch.
-
Guys, it only has three tabs... That's why mine is jacked up on three guitar picks...
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa303/nscaler711/temporary_zpsl8usdvej.jpg)
Back left corner is the rear window glass insert, see how it has a small cut out on just one side?
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa303/nscaler711/temporary_zpsgvcbdtvv.jpg)
-
can anyone comment on what type of airhorn these units came with, they seem to be 4 chime horns. have a Lok sound installed and was not sure which of the choices is correct, if any.
Rick
-
For the first 40 delivered: Leslie SL-4T.
(http://www.railpictures.net/images/d2/6/7/9/5679.1434759546.jpg)
http://atsf.railfan.net/airhorns/sl4t.html (http://atsf.railfan.net/airhorns/sl4t.html)
The later models had the horns split into two manifolds. From the link: "The remaining 110 SDP40F's had the same bells spread over two 2-chime manifolds (essentially an S-2G and an S-2H)"
(http://s3.amazonaws.com/rrpa_photos/5233/2313.jpg)
-
I never thought I'd get nostalgic for these beasts ... now I'm waiting for Kato to release the later units (flat nose like #644 above).
Mark
-
My question is why would anyone (unless they want the magnetic uncoupling) replace the latest version of Kato couplers with Micro Trains?
Especially on dedicated passenger power?
I find these new style of Kato couplers (CZ and up) to be bulletproof in all operating environments that I've encountered.
Thanks for enlightening me!
-
By "new" do you mean the 2nd version (introduced probably about 10 years ago)? Or is this some new coupler? I looked at my SDP40F and it looked like the regular Kato coupler. Bulletproof? I find those very unreliable with unscheduled uncoupling (especially when there is a slack on them while going through crosspvers (S-curves), even on well-laid track. While the subject does not come up often, others also have similar experience.
I demonstrated the problem to a Kato rep at last Springfield show and he took photos and even a video of my demonstration. He said that he would discuss the problem with Kato design engineers.
I would love to have a drop-in MTL coupler conversion for the passenger cast and I even lobbied for it, but it is not to be. Too bad as I would buy quite few of them.
-
I liked them when they were new. Of course, I also liked the GN/BN F45s, so these fit right in, visually. Kind of missed the GN/NP/BN Fs that had been pulling the EB, but they resurfaced as freight units, in fresh BN paint, which was even better.
-
By "new" do you mean the 2nd version (introduced probably about 10 years ago)? Or is this some new coupler? I looked at my SDP40F and it looked like the regular Kato coupler. Bulletproof? I find those very unreliable with unscheduled uncoupling (especially when there is a slack on them while going through crosspvers (S-curves), even on well-laid track. While the subject does not come up often, others also have similar experience.
I demonstrated the problem to a Kato rep at last Springfield show and he took photos and even a video of my demonstration. He said that he would discuss the problem with Kato design engineers.
I would love to have a drop-in MTL coupler conversion for the passenger cast and I even lobbied for it, but it is not to be. Too bad as I would buy quite few of them.
I've run a 13 car Superliner Empire Builder with the stock Kato couplers for almost ten years on Modutrak. Times it's uncoupled? ZERO.
My five car Hiawatha with a powered F40 Cabbage, and P42 speed matched at each end, times uncoupled? ZERO.
They're overscaled, but they work.
-
I've run a 13 car Superliner Empire Builder with the stock Kato couplers for almost ten years on Modutrak. Times it's uncoupled? ZERO.
My five car Hiawatha with a powered F40 Cabbage, and P42 speed matched at each end, times uncoupled? ZERO.
They're overscaled, but they work.
Well, lucky you! Sure they are oversize, but so are MTL couplers or Rapidos.
Have you ran your reliably-coupled train through an S-curve (like a crossover) while there is slack on the couplers? That is when the unscheduled uncouplings occur most often. But even a certain types of jerking moves can do that too. Both of those conditions can occur during running (to the dismay of the N scale passengers).
-
I have experienced the unwanted uncouplings Pete describes with my Cal Zephyr. I will say however that these couplers are WAAAYYYY better then the last version (gen 2 I think) of the Kato coupler that came with the original corrugated side Budd cars.
-
The same as the amfleets? Ran 8 car trains of those on the club layout with crossovers and never heard of them derailing. In fact I hated trying to uncouple them during ops (yes we have passenger facilities/yard etc) because they may as well be glued together... Surprised to hear that complaint if they are the same couplers :?
-
The same as the amfleets? Ran 8 car trains of those on the club layout with crossovers and never heard of them derailing. In fact I hated trying to uncouple them during ops (yes we have passenger facilities/yard etc) because they may as well be glued together... Surprised to hear that complaint if they are the same couplers :?
Yes, they are pain to uncouple when you want to, but they also uncouple by themselves when they shouldn't. Believe it or not. As I mentioned, it usually happens on S-curves while in slack. That is when the couplers shift sideways (each coupler going in the opposite direction). That is not something you would ever do while trying to uncouple them manually.
-
Well, I have the eleven car Super and a thirteen car El Cap sets, run them on 18" curves, grades up to 3%, and through #7 Atlas crossovers and even some #5 staging yard turnouts and have never once experienced an unwanted uncoupling. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but it doesn't happen on my layout and hence it a non-issue for me. Since these are dedicated train sets not interchanged with other equipment, I'd rather spend my time, money and energy on other things and coupler issues rather than replacing the relatively small-ish Kato couplers. But I am looking forward to testing the new True-scale coupler, on other passenger trains, currently equipped with M/T's.... and I may put it on the tail end of the Super Chief observation...
Otto K.
-
I have every major Kato passenger set release and I back them all into my passenger terminal stub tracks and they work flawlessly. The only cars I have problems with consistently are my Rapido cars. I can't replace the Rapido cars fast enough, if Kato would just do a Northern Pacific set.
-
I'm having a hard time picturing a scenario where you could have slack on them during movement peteski? Would you care to elaborate or have a video of the scenario? Not trying to discredit you at all just genuinely curious as I always found these couplers to be the most bomb proof of any of the n scale couplers I have dealt with. :?
-
I'm having a hard time picturing a scenario where you could have slack on them during movement peteski? Would you care to elaborate or have a video of the scenario? Not trying to discredit you at all just genuinely curious as I always found these couplers to be the most bomb proof of any of the n scale couplers I have dealt with. :?
Once our round-robin operating group gets back together for operating in the Fall, I'll see if I can take a video. I'll also take a video of me manually uncoupling the couplers with a sideways motion. While doing the same motion MTL couplers stay coupled. I'll start a separate thread on this.
Here (http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=58439)is a thread from the A-board about problems with Kato couplers. I know there were more but the search engine times out when I do the searches.
-
Well, lucky you! Sure they are oversize, but so are MTL couplers or Rapidos.
Have you ran your reliably-coupled train through an S-curve (like a crossover) while there is slack on the couplers? That is when the unscheduled uncouplings occur most often. But even a certain types of jerking moves can do that too. Both of those conditions can occur during running (to the dismay of the N scale passengers).
An S curve on Modutrak? I think not! :P
-
An S curve on Modutrak? I think not! :P
Ha! No Modutrak here - I run my Kato passenger cars on NTRAK and on private layouts. :P
As far as S-curves go, any crossover is an S-curve.
-
As far as S-curves go, any crossover is an S-curve.
No, not any.
Jason
-
No, not any.
Jason
Allrrighty then, whatever you say. :|
-
On a happier note,
The SDP40F's with sound are in at MBK:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/N-Scale-EMD-SDP40F-Locomotives-s/3880.htm (http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/N-Scale-EMD-SDP40F-Locomotives-s/3880.htm)
I do want to note Kato seems to have made huge run of these or something, because MBK has been getting restocked on both the DC and DCC equipped versions. It makes it easier to spread out the pain on the wallet, seeing as I'm sure folks who have the full El Capitan/Southwest Limited set will want 3 in each paint scheme to pull their 18 car consist...I know I'd like to...
Now we just need Kato to run F40PH's in phase 2 paint and another run of F40PH's in phase 3 paint with numbers in the low 300's and you could model just about any consist Amtrak could put together in the mid 70's to the very early 80's.
-
On a happier note,
The SDP40F's with sound are in at MBK:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/N-Scale-EMD-SDP40F-Locomotives-s/3880.htm (http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/N-Scale-EMD-SDP40F-Locomotives-s/3880.htm)
I do want to note Kato seems to have made huge run of these or something, because MBK has been getting restocked on both the DC and DCC equipped versions. It makes it easier to spread out the pain on the wallet, seeing as I'm sure folks who have the full El Capitan/Southwest Limited set will want 3 in each paint scheme to pull their 18 car consist...I know I'd like to...
Now we just need Kato to run F40PH's in phase 2 paint and another run of F40PH's in phase 3 paint with numbers in the low 300's and you could model just about any consist Amtrak could put together in the mid 70's to the very early 80's.
There is no huge run of the DCC or DCC and sound equipped versions. They're built from stock DC units as they are ordered. That said, the phase one DC units are starting to get low.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com
-
That said, the phase one DC units are starting to get low.
Nice to know! This seems to indicate that Kato has hit a home-run with this locos.