TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: VonRyan on September 09, 2012, 11:13:50 AM
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Hi all, in order to give my search another sense of direction, i've now decided that my loco of choice to be the most appropriate for 1940s and early 50s general freight service and the occasional reefer hotshot is the H10(sa?).
Now, i've seen some pictures on here of some great looking H10 kitbashes, and i'm wondering three simple things:
1 - Who built it/them?
2 - What did you use?
And,
3 - Could you do another one?
My budget to have an H10 made by one of you amazing craftsmen is $120 with a complete max of $140
Plus i already have the DZ125 to give the loco its all-important requirement of DCC, which hopefully (if needed) there is someone who is willing to install it (for free?) if the loco's builder cannot.
Any and all questions, comments, concerns, etc. are welcome.
Also, do feel free to PM me with anything that comes to mind.
Thanks everyone for your time, patients, and hopefully you posts.
Cheers!
-Cody F.
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I have... Used a Minitrix K4 with a Minitrix B6 cab on a Spectrum 2-8-0.
This was my first hard-wire DCC install and I learned quite a bit about micro-soldering doing it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JFV9MCov8h4/TUS38YZWimI/AAAAAAAAOvM/qBZIarThSWc/s640/IMG_6053.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lar_10nJN8M/S_yGQj5St3I/AAAAAAAAOvI/jMWwfvOfvYs/s640/IMG_0745.JPG)
I think I saw you'd seen my 2007 article in NTrak Steam...
I intend to do another one for myself using what little supply of Minitrix parts I have left. This time, however, I will make a few upgrades (if and when I get around to it!) such as sanding the tender sides flat and using Archer rivet detail to make it look more Pennsy as well as perhaps a Tsunami sound decoder with a PRR banshee whistle.
I'm not sure I'm in a position to do custom work, though. That said, you can get the raw materials for less than $140 if you keep your eyes on the 'bay. If I do get around to making a new boiler shell, I may consider trying to make castings. But I don't want to set your expectations high on that from a timeline perspective. The Juniata Division has any number of projects at a higher priority that also take a backseat to my work & family life.
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I have... Used a Minitrix K4 with a Minitrix B6 cab on a Spectrum 2-8-0.
This was my first hard-wire DCC install and I learned quite a bit about micro-soldering doing it.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JFV9MCov8h4/TUS38YZWimI/AAAAAAAAOvM/qBZIarThSWc/s640/IMG_6053.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lar_10nJN8M/S_yGQj5St3I/AAAAAAAAOvI/jMWwfvOfvYs/s640/IMG_0745.JPG)
I think I saw you'd seen my 2007 article in NTrak Steam...
I intend to do another one for myself using what little supply of Minitrix parts I have left. This time, however, I will make a few upgrades (if and when I get around to it!) such as sanding the tender sides flat and using Archer rivet detail to make it look more Pennsy as well as perhaps a Tsunami sound decoder with a PRR banshee whistle.
I'm not sure I'm in a position to do custom work, though. That said, you can get the raw materials for less than $140 if you keep your eyes on the 'bay. If I do get around to making a new boiler shell, I may consider trying to make castings. But I don't want to set your expectations high on that from a timeline perspective. The Juniata Division has any number of projects at a higher priority that also take a backseat to my work & family life.
I haven't seen your N-Trak steam addendum article.
It's an investment for after i have a loco that actually is appropriate for my rolling stock. :facepalm:
So at least i know i need the 2-8-0 chassis and the K4 shell.
Just leaves finding someone who can do this before i start buying the needed parts.
-Cody F.
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I can't help but wonder why you're so set on having someone build this for you... Your own labor is fee of charge and you will learn worlds more about every aspect of modeling while you do it. At some point you will invariably have to tear a steam loco down to find a bug, whether it's binding valve gear, a wobble, a stall, etc., and once you've had one of these in pieces on your bench and put it back together on your own, no steam problem becomes too hard for you.
FWIW, this bash took a few months of evenings to do (interspersed with other projects), but I would be hard-pressed to estimate labor in actual man-hours. Much time was spent on milling the weights on the 2-8-0 to fit the shell and on milling out the K4 boiler to fit the chassis. Not hard if you own a Dremel, just a lot of sand/fit/sand/fit/sand/fit, etc. I also took some parts from the 2-8-0 boiler (pipes, bell, handrails, etc.) and fit them to the Minitrix shell.
The overall satisfaction of building your own is immeasurable and the knowledge you gain invaluable.
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I can't help but wonder why you're so set on having someone build this for you... Your own labor is fee of charge and you will learn worlds more about every aspect of modeling while you do it. At some point you will invariably have to tear a steam loco down to find a bug, whether it's binding valve gear, a wobble, a stall, etc., and once you've had one of these in pieces on your bench and put it back together on your own, no steam problem becomes too hard for you.
FWIW, this bash took a few months of evenings to do (interspersed with other projects), but I would be hard-pressed to estimate labor in actual man-hours. Much time was spent on milling the weights on the 2-8-0 to fit the shell and on milling out the K4 boiler to fit the chassis. Not hard if you own a Dremel, just a lot of sand/fit/sand/fit/sand/fit, etc. I also took some parts from the 2-8-0 boiler (pipes, bell, handrails, etc.) and fit them to the Minitrix shell.
The overall satisfaction of building your own is immeasurable and the knowledge you gain invaluable.
Well, for one i don't own a dremel, or airbrush.
Plus i've the complete inablility to recreate anything from an example.
It took me 2 whole months to be remotely happy with a sketch of a simple 4 sq. in. area of a projector screen housing.
I have Aspergers Syndrome, which is on the autism spectrum, and is where there is an increased intelligence, usually within a specific area of interest, yet minimal social skills with others their own age (hence why i associate with many people more than twice my age) and other varying drawbacks. Mine is that it has instilled in me a perfectionism that has inhibited me from recreating things from photos, a still-life, etc. to where if i cannot make it precisely as i see it, i reject it with not one afterthought, and yet someone else could recreate the same thing I was, and it will, 99% of the time, be more appealing to me than any result i could obtain. Though even if I felt i could do better, it's basically an oxymoron since i couldn't.
In a nutshell what i'm trying to recreate from what i see doesn't translate to my hands very well.
Plus i tend to have a deeper appreciation for things crafted by the hands of others.
There has only been one exception thus far and that is a random building that i started to scratchbuild more than a year ago, never finished, and still remains untouched for a little over a year. Will i ever finish it? Probably not since i have no idea where the bits went...
-Cody F.
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I'm sorry to hear of your disability.
I imagine that it would make it very difficult to build a layout let alone a single loco.
I would suggest in the meantime monitoring eBay. I see bashes from time to time. Your budget might make things a bit harder though.
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PM me your address... I think I have an extra resin casting of the K4 boiler that Lou D sent me back in the day. Gratis for a fellow Pennsy steam fan.
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I'm sorry to hear of your disability.
I imagine that it would make it very difficult to build a layout let alone a single loco.
I would suggest in the meantime monitoring eBay. I see bashes from time to time. Your budget might make things a bit harder though.
It tends to be more of a curse and a godsend at the same time. One i don't have to worry about falling into the same troubles as others in my age-group (i.e. drinking parties and other wastes of time) but at the same time my lunch period is a bit quiet but a good time to read the latest issue of model railroader.
-Cody F.
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Are there any H-10 plans available? Since I'm a B&O modeler, I'm not up on my PRR steam.
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Are there any H-10 plans available? Since I'm a B&O modeler, I'm not up on my PRR steam.
There sure are.
John W. Dill produced a set of large-format books of Pennsy steam drawings. Vol 7: Freight Locos, which I have,
has a drawing of an H8/9/10 and one of an H6.
On-Line, this site: http://prr.railfan.net/diagrams/
has drawings of practically every PRR steam loco. They are measured, so they are good enough to build a model from.
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H10 drawings in the steam cylopedia.
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H10 builders on the railwire? :?
-Cody F.
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Cody,
It just can't be done for the money you are willing to spend. A new spectrum 2-8-0 is in the $100 range alone, if you get lucky you can pick one up used for around $50-60. Then you need a Trix B6 to cut the cab off of. You need a K4 boiler for more details, then you have the work of mating them all together and making things fit the chassis and we haven't even gotten to the tender yet.
Just in parts this is close to a $200 project when you get down to all the nickle and dime bits and pieces, plus you want to make it DCC which adds again to the cost.
Most of these guys have too many of their own projects to do, including myself. The only way it would be worth doing is if there was profit involved to help pay for other projects.
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Cody, I agree with Tony that your budget needs to be higher if you want/need someone to build a locomotive for you. I have been looking for a few days to find a EASY & IN BUDGET locomotive for you. A PRR L2 might be a good loco for you, the Pennsy only had 5 of them and they were not used on lines east. The L2 is a USRA 2-8-2 and looks a lot like a Kato Mikado 2-8-2 with some small changes like raised head light, add the traction drivers and you have a great loco. Later on you could make it in to a L1 when you have more money in your budget. Rich
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My intent on suggesting the Kato Mikado + the GHQ kit was this:
Together, they will cost you around $200, maybe a little less or a little more depending on how lucky you are.
I know that is over your budget.
But finding somebody to build an engine for you, unless they are willing to almost "give away" their services,
is going to cost a lot more.
If it takes somebody 100 hours to build you the engine, $140 is $1.40/hour, PLUS the cost of the base engine and parts
required. I don't think anybody would be willing to work for that. And believe me, when you get into kitbashing a steam
loco, 100 hours isn't that uncommon.
I'm afraid Tony is right. $140 just isn't nearly enough budget for a custom job.
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My intent on suggesting the Kato Mikado + the GHQ kit was this:
Together, they will cost you around $200, maybe a little less or a little more depending on how lucky you are.
I know that is over your budget.
But finding somebody to build an engine for you, unless they are willing to almost "give away" their services,
is going to cost a lot more.
If it takes somebody 100 hours to build you the engine, $140 is $1.40/hour, PLUS the cost of the base engine and parts
required. I don't think anybody would be willing to work for that. And believe me, when you get into kitbashing a steam
loco, 100 hours isn't that uncommon.
I'm afraid Tony is right. $140 just isn't nearly enough budget for a custom job.
So basically even if i provide the necessary shell(s), chassis, and decoder, i'm basically just fooling myself? :|
I thought there might be someone that had done one of these type locomotives before and who wouldn't mind doing another one even though they aren't exactly making a true "profit" on it.
Is that basically what everyone has been getting at? or is there some other factor that i'm not seeing yet?
-Cody F.
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or is there some other factor that i'm not seeing yet?
There are things that one will do for oneself, as a labor of love, that aren't in the least appealing as a "contract job" for someone else.
It's also more fun doing something the first time, and learning the skills involved in doing it, than it is to crank out additional copies. As stated in John Armstrong's Model Railroading Rule #1, posted over the stairs leading down to the great man's layout--"If at first you DO succeed, DON'T try it again!" :)
As a person who shares your perfectionism in regards to his own work--all I ever see are my mistakes, even when nobody else notices them--I can tell you this. Even if it takes years; even if in the end it's not perfect: if you stretch yourself to your limits to make something the best you can possibly make it, it will be infinitely more satisfying than anything you could possibly pay someone else to do.
(Besides, by the time you hit your late 40s it'll be hard to find people twice your age to hang out with...) :)
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Most of us here kitbash because we have to and love the locomotive we are trying to make. I have stuff that was started years ago and it sits in a box waiting for me to finish. I just work on it when the mood strikes. When it's done, it's done. I don't think about how much it is worth or my work was worth.
I spent a few months making an Atlas 2-6-0 into a logging type 2-6-2. It was back before I had a lathe, or milling machine, or knew how to etch brass. I just got the bug one day, flipped through a few magazines and found drawings of a locomotive that would work out great with the Atlas loco as a start. When it was all done I sat it up on a shelf and didn't touch it for a couple years. I ended up selling it just to get it off of my shelf... If someone wanted that same loco now I really just wouldn't have any motivation to get it going.
I've done stuff for other people before and all I want to do is walk passed it and work on my own stuff. There is "model railroading time" and that really doesn't change so if I'm doing something else during that time there ends up being less time.
On the other hand I bet most people here would be more than willing to help you figure out a problem you might run into if you were building it yourself. I know you say you don't have the tools and stuff like that, but maybe that would be something better to spend your money on right now?
If Model Railroading became my job it might no longer be fun :)
I can scan those H10 drawings, size them to N scale and e-mail to you if that will help.
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Cody,
As I indicated, it took me several months of evenings for my H10sb kitbash These were non-consecutive months, too. I started on the boiler while stationed in Florida the first time, and finished it at a later assignment. Its a non-trivial prospect of time and patience. Tinkering with someone's loco with no expectation of a specific deadline; that I might be able to do. It's been done for me. Parts donation? Sure. Decoder install? Sure, although usually even then folks around here expect a nominal fee for such services. Kitbashing steam, however, is for most a lengthy process. Difficult? No, not necessarily, which is why I am trying to encourage you to give it a shot. I spent much less time building an entire charity raffle N scale layout with a crew of 4 other guys than a typical steam bash might take me to get right. As others have indicated, it stops being a "favor" after a few days' work and starts becoming significant work. It's not about "profit" at that point; it's about many tens of hours of missed work on one's own layout or projects, which for most of us already competes with long work hours, family, other extracurricular commitments, etc.
You are sounding hung-up on this idea that someone who'd done one before would be able to do it again rather quickly. No. Milling and fitting, fitting and milling, balancing and wiring, testing and re-testing... These processes are iterative and cannot be rushed, no matter how many times one has done this. Might I shave a few hours off having learned a few don'ts last go around? Perhaps, but not a significant amount relative to the project as a whole. Again, it's not overwhelmingly hard, it's just very precise, and so patience is the most overwhelmingly necessary skill.
The box of K4 castings should be in the mail tomorrow, so between that and the decoder, you have someplace to start. I did scan eBay and noted there aren't as many blow-out deals on those Spectrum 2-8-0s as there once were, now that the Bachmann Soviet-decoder-equipped version is out. That said, check the Trading Post here and the 'bay; they're bound to turn up.
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Dave, and others, well said.
Per you original request, here's my H10.
VonRyan, even though I took a very different approach from Dave on my H10 as I built mine from a shortened Minitrix Decapod, I spent many, many hours making, photographing and vidoegraphing my model below. The miniature detailing I did and the countless hours of trying to find and staring at photos of the road number I decided to model to try to get close (yes this is the correct tender for this road number!!!), is priceless to me as is the model.
THAT is the true joy of kitbashing to me. Making something from something else, like so many others here have. I still encourage you to try, and even though you may think you have failed when complete (as you suggest your disorder may cause), the sense of accomplishment may very well overcome that.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6151/6166006548_1054deb322_b.jpg)
I really do not want you to become discouraged; and because of your age, I think you may be a bit niave to think that we are all benevolent givers here. That statement is not meant to be taken as a put-down, however, it just means that you have not experienced life and work to the point where time for others is not necessarily free and is very limited (speaking as a parent, husband and employee).
I'll tell you what- I'll make you a deal. If you give making your own H10 a heartfelt try and document it here so others can help and constructively criticize your work with you and if you still feel that you have failed, I will sell you mine for a price that will not put you over budget. I will even include two Bachmann tender trucks, and a leftover TCS M1 decoder that I used for experimentation. If someone here is willing to install the decoder (I am TERRIBLE at it) and the trucks for improved pickup, I will send it to them first for subsequent shipping to you (volunteers?).
So my challenge to you is above. Give it a try using Dave's spares, and a chassis of your choice (I don't recommend my method compared to Dave's and others, as it is much more work with the drivetrain and frame) and give yourself the chance to experience what so many others have tried (and sometimes failed, I can admit that! :D). It may just send you on an N Scale journey you will hopefully never outgrow!
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Ok, Since i'm also a headstrong and stubborn bloke who doesn't like being challenged by others (but sees turning it down as the cowards way out ;) ), i accept the challenge that has been set before me.
I'll even add to said wager in that if i do complete it without there being some obvious problem and the 2/3rds majority are that its a success, i'll re-try handlaying turnouts (if i can find someone to properly teach me).
Now before i try and find the deed to my house... I'll end on a note of caution...
For those of you playing along at home, betting on the outcome of this project is risky at best. Do so at your own risk. :trollface: :D
I'll take the first picture of the project tonight... A blank space on my workbench...
(plus i'll try to take a picture of my on-going restoration of a 60+ year old Clark & Gibby Inc. desk that is destined to be my new workbench, er... desk...)
-Cody F.
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VonRyan, We have a deal for a price to be disclosed at a later date. BTW it was not a challenge to your manhood, just an appeal to your abilities.
Go for it and you may end up with two H10's to doublehead (yes they did that!).
Looking forward to seeing your progress!
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Okay, NOW your're talkin', man!
I'm "all in". As you progress on this, if you get stuck or need parts, post here and I will join the others who will dig through my bins
to help you out.
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VonRyan, We have a deal for a price to be disclosed at a later date. BTW it was not a challenge to your manhood, just an appeal to your abilities.
Go for it and you may end up with two H10's to doublehead (yes they did that!).
Looking forward to seeing your progress!
:scared: Manhood? IIRC 17 still means that legally i'm a kid... which basically means almost nothing but oh well. :D
I just meant that its a general challenge (albeit an interesting on at that), not some egg eating challenge straight out of "Cool Hand Luke"... no i won't eat 60 eggs. :trollface:
so once the Vollmer Special arrives via the not-so-friendly postman, it shall begin. The search for a suitable 2-8-0 chassis is already underway, but not exactly very fruitful as of yet. Perhaps at the next few train shows I attend i'll find something more cost efficient.
Soon enough i'll start a progress topic for all to follow.
-Cody F.
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Cody, glad to see you are going to build the H10sa. We all want to see you be successful in building your locomotive. I live in N.J. and model the Pennsy if you get stuck on modeling your engine I will try to help you. Rich
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So just so you're prepared, the boiler shells will be in various states of usability. Between them all you should have enough plus spares if you screw one up. What I didn't send was an appropriate cab. Those come from a Minitrix B6, and I have but one on hand for the mega-H10 I plan to do one of these years.
IF I had an unlimited budget, here's what I'd do:
1. Spectrum 2-8-0, non-DCC.
2. K4 boiler
3. B6 cab
4. GHQ Pennsy tender shell (for an L1s, sold by Republic Locomotive Works, RLW, but matches the one on the surviving H10sb #7688)
5. GHQ tender steps and detailing kit from RLW
6. GHQ L1s detailing set from RLW
7. Soundtrax Mirco-Tsunami sound decoder
8. Micro Scale Pennsy hood diesel decal set (trust me)
Mad Max Magliaro taught me a trick for the headlight. Take some fiber optic and heat the end with a soldering iron to form a lens. Drill into the headlight casting and create a pathway down into the smokebox. Insert the fiber optic such that the lens is flush in the headlight and the other end of the fiber optic contacts the LED inside the smokebox. Voila! Instant lit headlight.
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so once the Vollmer Special arrives via the not-so-friendly postman, it shall begin. The search for a suitable 2-8-0 chassis is already underway, but not exactly very fruitful as of yet. Perhaps at the next few train shows I attend i'll find something more cost efficient.
-Cody F.
Guys help me out here. Train world has them for 59.99 for some of the less popular lines. Is that the good model or not (been thinking about one for myself...).
I have a spare B6 cab. PM your address to me and I will send it to you.
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Ok, so far we've collectively assembled the following resources.
>K4 Shells -Dave V.
>B6 Cab -John (Lemosteam)
>Decoder -Myself
>Workspace -Myself
In terms of the tender, what is the most effective option that isn't going to be hard to find and also be relatively cheap.
There is a good amount of Bachmann tenders on ebay right now, its just a matter of determining which one i need if it is one of them.
If not, who what where and how? :D
-Cody F.
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VonRyan, try this for the mech... $59.99
http://www.trainworldonline.com/catalog/bachmann/spectrum-n-scale-dcc-ready-baldwin-2-8-0-consolidation-rock-island-2118-81172 (http://www.trainworldonline.com/catalog/bachmann/spectrum-n-scale-dcc-ready-baldwin-2-8-0-consolidation-rock-island-2118-81172)
I agree with Dave on the tender shell from the l1s kit $20:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=843 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=843)
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Hey, for my tender, I just used the stock Bachmann with K4 tender steps and marker lamps (sorry, can't help you there) and I fashioned a new slope sheet to match a more Pennsy profile. I then hid the slope sheet splice in the coal pile.
Not ideal, but also not offensive. The rivet pattern is more of a giveaway that it's not true Pennsy than the overall size and shape. Almost all Pennsy tenders had a sloping rivet line marking the slope sheet profile.
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VonRyan, try this for the mech... $59.99
http://www.trainworldonline.com/catalog/bachmann/spectrum-n-scale-dcc-ready-baldwin-2-8-0-consolidation-rock-island-2118-81172 (http://www.trainworldonline.com/catalog/bachmann/spectrum-n-scale-dcc-ready-baldwin-2-8-0-consolidation-rock-island-2118-81172)
I agree with Dave on the tender shell from the l1s kit $20:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=843 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=843)
Good to know.
Just found this as well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/n-scale-locomotive-/200817709354?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ec1ab112a (http://www.ebay.com/itm/n-scale-locomotive-/200817709354?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ec1ab112a)
If i can't land it for under the cost of buying one from train world, then train world it is.
As for the tender? isn't there someone who makes n scale rivet decals? or are they not really worth it for a first time project?
-Cody F.
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RLW tender steps $2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=844 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=844)
RLW markers and steam pipe vacuum valves $2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=840 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=840)
RLW PRR headlight $2, you may need 2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=847 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=847)
All are excellent castings IMHO.
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RLW tender steps $2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=844 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=844)
RLW markers and steam pipe vacuum valves $2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=840 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=840)
RLW PRR headlight $2, you may need 2:
https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=847 (https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/show_item.php?ID=847)
All are excellent castings IMHO.
Good to know where to get them. Now since a sheet of archer rivet decals are like $18 would anyone happen to have enough extra so that i might try and add the slopped rivets for the slope sheet?
-Cody F.
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You won't need it if you buy the $20 RLW tender shell. Rivets are accurate and you'll just need to fit it on the Bmann tender frame.
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Good to know.
Just found this as well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/n-scale-locomotive-/200817709354?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ec1ab112a (http://www.ebay.com/itm/n-scale-locomotive-/200817709354?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2ec1ab112a)
If i can't land it for under the cost of buying one from train world, then train world it is.
As for the tender? isn't there someone who makes n scale rivet decals? or are they not really worth it for a first time project?
-Cody F.
Avoid the ebay loco. That is a first production run loco, Rock Island hasn't been done in many years. It's not worth taking a chance over $10.00.
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Tony are the ones at train world OK?
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What I didn't send was an appropriate cab.
Model Railroad Hobbyist (http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com) has been running a series on "Scratchbuilding a Steam Loco in Styrene."
Coincidentally, this month's installment shows how to build two versions of a cab--one in brass, one in styrene. The styrene version starts on page 72. It's in HO, but the techniques shown are certainly applicable to N scale--and it doesn't look as difficult as I would have imagined.
They also scratchbuild a tender from the frame up... :)
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Avoid the ebay loco. That is a first production run loco, Rock Island hasn't been done in many years. It's not worth taking a chance over $10.00.
Were first run really that bad? I didn't realize there were multiple versions of the DCC-ready version.
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There have been at least 5-6 different production batches of these locos. The first ones were certainly try before you buy. As they made more and more of them, they got better at production and quality control. The most recent ones, I really don't worry about try before you buy as I haven't had a new loco bad from them in quite a few years. I think the first batch was over 10 years ago. That is a long time for plastic to get brittle and traction tire rubber to harden, especially if kept in the home of a smoker.
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They might be identical, but I'm pretty sure the Rock Island was from the second release.
I have one from each of the first two releases and they both operate perfectly. But I did test both before buying.
Jason
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Good to know where to get them. Now since a sheet of archer rivet decals are like $18 would anyone happen to have enough extra so that i might try and add the slopped rivets for the slope sheet?
-Cody F.
Send me your address in a PM. I have one of those GHQ tender shells (the newer one in plastic/urethane) that you can have. I'll mail it off to you.
-- Max
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Avoid the ebay loco. That is a first production run loco, Rock Island hasn't been done in many years. It's not worth taking a chance over $10.00.
Sorry Tony, I didn't realize my listing and the eBay listing were the same loco. Should I go for the 79.00 versions are they newer/better? I cant find release history on the Bmann side.
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John,
The trainworld one should be fine. Being that the first release was 10 years ago, I would doubt the version they have is from the first go at them. My only point was with the Ebay listing, there is more chance that it is a first run loco and would be more likely than a newer one to have issues. Most of the early issues were gauge, flashing on the gears, and some mechanical adjustment of the valve gear. Nothing hard to deal with but I figured the path of least resistance was best for Cody. I feel it's not worth the $10 difference to chance it for him. For myself, no big deal because I am fairly sure I could fix it. In fact most of my 2-8-0's wer bought DOA for $20-30 each because I was confident I could fix them cheaper than paying for a new one.
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Avoid the ebay loco. That is a first production run loco, Rock Island hasn't been done in many years. It's not worth taking a chance over $10.00.
Shoot. Looks like i have some finagling ahead of me...
Or should i just leave the seller alone and take the bit of risk?
-Cody F.
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Cody, For $10.00 more I would get the trainworld 2-8-0. If it's newer stock? Rich
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Cody, For $10.00 more I would get the trainworld 2-8-0. If it's newer stock? Rich
Well i put in my bid already yesterday...
So the question is do i ask the seller to cancel the bid i place or do i just go with it and take the chance that it might need some work?
-Cody F.
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It depends. If you put the bid in for the minimum, at this point let it ride. If you put it in for anything more than the minimum, I would ask him questions like, how old is it?. If you put your bid in for more than the price of the Trainworld one, then retract it. Shipping from Trainworld will be more than the Ebayer so keep that in consideration.
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It depends. If you put the bid in for the minimum, at this point let it ride. If you put it in for anything more than the minimum, I would ask him questions like, how old is it?. If you put your bid in for more than the price of the Trainworld one, then retract it. Shipping from Trainworld will be more than the Ebayer so keep that in consideration.
My max bid combined with the shipping cost comes out to $55.
It looks like it has the motor in the cab... is that a bad sign?
-Cody F.
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There wa no guarantee that you would win the auction anyway. At least TW has a return policy! So far you'll only be in for $60 plus shipping, right?
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I know you bid already, but that one doesn't end for 4 days.
Here is one that ends in a hour:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BACHMANN-N-Scale-Dixie-Line-N-C-St-2-8-0-390-NEW-/160878606882?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item25751cba22
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Well i put in my bid already yesterday...
So the question is do i ask the seller to cancel the bid i place or do i just go with it and take the chance that it might need some work?
-Cody F.
Since it is obvious he has track, see if he will send you a video of it running, slowly... Just a thought. If it runs erratically maybe he will let you retract your bid.
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There wa no guarantee that you would win the auction anyway. At least TW has a return policy! So far you'll only be in for $60 plus shipping, right?
Well, so far as i know, i still am winning, with the only bid at that. Hope fully the loco doesn't have any problems a little Labell cant fix...
-Cody F.
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You can probably tinker it into working. I've only ever had one steam loco work perfectly out of the box, and thank God too, 'cause it was a 2-8-8-2!
Tinkering is a great skill to learn. I've never had to waste time sending a loco back for warranty work.
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I know you bid already, but that one doesn't end for 4 days.
Here is one that ends in a hour:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BACHMANN-N-Scale-Dixie-Line-N-C-St-2-8-0-390-NEW-/160878606882?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item25751cba22
Curious. It seems to have ended with no bids.
And his other 2-8-0's seem to be priced at double that or more...
You guys are dangerous. I dropped Pennsy steam years ago partly because of the cost and difficulty getting components, but you and a "birthday trip" to Altoona a couple weeks ago are getting me interested again...
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Cody, I would not worry about the locomotive. The Seller offers
14 days money back, buyer pays return shipping. Shipping to you is only $3.25 so the most you'll be out on shipping should be around $8.00. If the engine is a bad runner most times you can fix minor problems. I would not cancel the sale because that would hurt your ebay standing. You should ask the seller how well the loco runs? I don't see that in the listing and that will help your case if there is an issue Rich
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Curious. It seems to have ended with no bids.
And his other 2-8-0's seem to be priced at double that or more...
You guys are dangerous. I dropped Pennsy steam years ago partly because of the cost and difficulty getting components, but you and a "birthday trip" to Altoona a couple weeks ago are getting me interested again...
Darn! I wish I had seen this. $40 was quite a steal... well, assuming one was willing to do some fix-up if it needed it. That's still a good buy just for the parts.
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I know I should have bought it myself.
(contact the seller)
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Then why didn't you guys place the minimum bit on it? :facepalm: It does't cost you anything if someone else bids on it. You know (going by what I know about eBay), when the seller re-lists it, it will probably end in a bidding war between two newbies and it'll sell for $150! :RUEffinKiddingMe:
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peteski, I want one but I didn't want to steal it from under VonRyan if he wanted it. ;)
VonRyan, B6 cab has been cut, sanded smooth and shipped. It's ready to attach to the backside of your shortened K4 shell. Not sure if the measurements to cut the K4 shell on my vid will be the same for the Bmann connie, but you can start the calculatiuons there.
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Then why didn't you guys place the minimum bit on it? :facepalm: It does't cost you anything if someone else bids on it. You know (going by what I know about eBay), when the seller re-lists it, it will probably end in a bidding war between two newbies and it'll sell for $150! :RUEffinKiddingMe:
Ahem... I believe my exact words were, "Darn! I wish I had seen this. " meaning, I didn't know it was there,
or I probably would have put in the minimum bid on it. ;-)
It's just as well. I'd much rather that Cody gets what he needs to do his project.
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Likewise, I didn't know about it 'till it was over; and would not have wanted to potentially bid against Cody for it in any case.
I wonder if the listing was a "goof" and intended to be $79 instead of $39- as are some of his other 2-8-0's?
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Cody, I would not worry about the locomotive. The Seller offers
14 days money back, buyer pays return shipping. Shipping to you is only $3.25 so the most you'll be out on shipping should be around $8.00. If the engine is a bad runner most times you can fix minor problems. I would not cancel the sale because that would hurt your ebay standing. You should ask the seller how well the loco runs? I don't see that in the listing and that will help your case if there is an issue Rich
So i guess i'll just ride it out as of now.
I know I should have bought it myself.
(contact the seller)
I wish i had seen it... then i really might have retracted my bid. I don't think i'll chance it even if it gets re-listed so y'all can fight amongst yourselves for it. :D :trollface: :facepalm:
-Cody f.
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Ok, so to keep everyone up to speed...
Yesterday the Vollmer Special arrived.
That included 2 resin K4 shells, both warped, but possibly salvageable.
One partly bashed shell that was the start of an H10 (needs some clean-up and such, which will be done soon enough).
1.5 plastic K4 shells. One with a slice in the firebox (probably will fill it in with milliput), and the halfa is in good shape, missing the firebox, but the smokebox is good to be used.
So it leaves me with two major options (and some other minor options)
1- Use the plastic K4 shell and a half to make a new H10 shell
2- Use the already partly done H10 shell (perhaps with some modifications)
When i get a chance, i'll take photographs of what i have and what exactly i'm talking about so everyone else besides Dave and I will understand... ;)
-Cody F.
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To straighten warped resin you can try running it under very hot water for a little a nd bending it back into shape. Once it is right run it under cold water.
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Yeah, I'm sorry it's not all in great shape, but that represented almost all of my remaining Pennsy steam shells. Another way to unwrap those resin castings is to heat them carefullywith a hair dryer. My wife has a decent one with a low heat setting.
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Yeah, I'm sorry it's not all in great shape, but that represented almost all of my remaining Pennsy steam shells. Another way to unwrap those resin castings is to heat them carefullywith a hair dryer. My wife has a decent one with a low heat setting.
No problem with the shells. Need to figure it out sometime or another if i want to cast resin details.
I'm combining the one shell with the slice in the firebox with the black shell-half's smokebox.
The GHQ tender shell came in today (Thanks Max!)
For some reason the seller ended the sale early and so i didn't get the loco.
I'll continue trolling for a deal, if not i might end up with buying the loco retail.
-Cody F.