TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on April 06, 2012, 07:48:07 PM
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(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KwFP7fceLr0/T2qFed_dBRI/AAAAAAAANlQ/10uWJQHoiYc/s720/29%20EASTER%20WUD%20720%20PNG.PNG)
UP 5037 progress
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0WDtssFzdOs/T39iARH19XI/AAAAAAAANoc/BJzD3E1yMTE/s800/x%205037%202012-4-5%20LS.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ks0ikevbusY/T39iAboNcRI/AAAAAAAANog/oQvX9--TzZI/s800/x%205037%202012-4-5%20RS.jpg)
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(http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/511/00864.JPG)
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Richie..... interesting opening....hmmmm....... :D
Mike: Why is the Addams Family theme running through my head........?
I've been weathering some 40's at random.... photo's when I find my #@$@$! camera !!!!!!!
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Progress on a pair of Portec tri-level auto racks:
(http://www.bbussey.net/rr/PortecPilot2.jpg)
The frame rendered 1/8" too short, as the build ratio on the Y axis was off. There were a couple of areas on the digital model that needed adjusting as well, including ride height, coupler height, middle deck height and the depth of the center sill. The etched wrapper however came out perfectly. Thanks to Allen (71jeep) recommending the Photo Etch Bending Tool by The Small Shop, I got perfect bends throughout. Just waiting on a new RP frame to arrive this coming week. Then I have to figure out how to paint the thing. Might paint the brass wrapper before assembly, since the inside of the car has to be white and all the panels are see-through.
(http://www.bbussey.net/rr/PortecPilot2a.jpg)
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Installation of roadbed and assembly of track sections for the Dawson Creek Subdivision continues with recent completion of the main and siding tracks through Sundance on the lower level.
Looking east through Sundance (curve in distance leads to Pine River bridge):
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx206/BCR570/Layout%20Train%20Movements%202010/Layout%20Construction%20-%20Benchwork/Layout%20Construction%20-%20Tracklaying/Sundanceeast.jpg)
Looking west through Sundance and toward Chetwynd yard limit:
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx206/BCR570/Layout%20Train%20Movements%202010/Layout%20Construction%20-%20Benchwork/Layout%20Construction%20-%20Tracklaying/Sundancewest.jpg)
I have been trying hard not to get stuck into any equipment projects at the moment in hopes of completing the main line, but I have been pushing a few projects which are well along toward completion. Last year I built several outfit cars; here are the first two primed and glossed in preparation for rivet decals:
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx206/BCR570/Equipment%20Photos%202012/OutfitCars38-4933.jpg)
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx206/BCR570/Equipment%20Photos%202012/OutfitCars39-4934.jpg)
This weekend I am working on the track from the Kiskatinaw River bridge to the Dawson Creek yard limit.
A Happy Easter to all,
Tim
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Well; I hate photo's of my efforts... never look as good close up............oh well...
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/2011%20-%202012%20Modeling/MilwBoxcar.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/2011%20-%202012%20Modeling/RIbox.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/2011%20-%202012%20Modeling/UPboxcar.jpg)
The rotten shots notwithstanding, I guess some cars work better with some techiniques... I really think I do better when I use an undec................
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Pud , your wheathering has gotten to be outstanding . Is it all paint or are you adding chauk ?
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(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TtTOWyP1Gy0/T3-9yITj8II/AAAAAAAAQng/0PLj8P3yyn0/s735/cmbsta40712+%281%29.jpg)
Got my dormers cast by NZT products, which jetted this project ever closer to completion. Also worked on the newspaper plant behind it... More photos as the weekend unfolds.
Lee
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Not sure that I want to be the next one up given all of the amazing stuff so far. But....here goes. Made some progress on the White Pearl macaroni building. Cut out a few more windows, and have the main walls taped together to see how it all fits. Used the Silhouette cutter to scribe the openings in brick sheet. I am building this into a bit of a slope, so the rails along the front section will be about a 1/2 inch higher.
I have a couple of thoughts on trying to apply some randomness to the brick color. I have been playing with the Brick and Tile software program (http://www.bricksntiles.com/textures/) to produce seamless brick textures. The thought is to print it on decal paper and apply it over a painted base coat. Lots of Solvaset latter and it might look good. The other thought is to use the cutter to cut out random single brick-sized stencils, and then apply different colors. Sort of like a punch card for those of you over 40 who know what I mean.
(http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll290/djs_ank_ak/Models/WhitePearl2.jpg)
Best wishes and Happy Easter, Dave
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Sorry for the webcam shot, but 27" by four feet of space for a grocer warehouse, interchange track, and some future industrial switching, whenever I get the chance to add another expansion to finish the layout in a U
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/Packers_1/Snapshot_20120407.jpg)
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Well, I'm about to drop the bombshell, No trains for me for the next few weeks. I'm in the process of moving back to the States, My wife came back from Deployment back in Feb, and filed for divorce. Dont' feel sorry for me, it's been a long time coming. I won't get into details. As of yesterday, all my trains are packed in flat rate boxes and on their way to washington state. Yes I Insured all of it. I'm hand carying all my scratch built stuff, like the climaxes, the Heisler, the A4, and my ICE3 (the box was too big to fit in flat rate boxes). I'll be ok, I already got a place to live lined up, and portentially have a job lined up, although, if any of you got hookups in Wa. State, Let me know! I may be stuck on the east coast on the way home for a period of time. I will let you guys know for sure when I know more.
Back on the train front, Before I started packing things up, I did do a little modeling, changed some more details on the A4 a little, mostly straitening piping, and changing some I wasn't happy with. I also started on a 2-6-2t project, using a Bachmann 0-6-0 as a starting point. It's going to be a REALLY HEAVY version, because I am reusing the USRA boiler. The way this it going together, I could potentially make it into a conversion kit.
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Mike: Sorry about your situation; hang tough.....
Richie: Paint, powder, chalks and dumb luck... thanks for the cudo's.
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Dave,
May I suggest using sleeves from a chandelier to make your vertical storage tanks... Nice white styrene, easy to work with, and just about the right diameter.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-31sYsgJfs5k/Ts7cRImADeI/AAAAAAAAPyg/rRPhX4xKq78/s735/PPG1+%281%29.jpg)
(pssst: I know where you can get some cheap!)
Lee
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Well; I hate photo's of my efforts... never look as good close up............oh well...
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/2011%20-%202012%20Modeling/RIbox.jpg)
Puddy, they are all layout worthy, but I like this one ALOT.....+10 :ashat: s
This week I finished up work on last weeks projects, this GP-7 had gotten a little "over weathered", and I wanted to see if I could fix it (and the fingerprint on the side sill.... :facepalm:)....I am much happier with it now...here is a before and after: ( the lighting has changed the look as well)
(http://www.n-scaler.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10010/normal_fhyy.jpg)
(http://www.n-scaler.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10010/normal_kuugj.jpg)
And next is this B&M geep, with its wipers installed. I had to hand-make the grabs for the electrical box on the rear....fun....
(http://www.n-scaler.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10010/normal_162.jpg)
And with the completion of the B&M Geep, it became obvious that I needed a better caboose to go with it, so here is a factory painted Bowser caboose to which I added red ends, z scale couplers, modified ends due to breaking/modifying :facepalm: during painting, and then I lowered the whole shebang.....First a proto shot....
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1470439 (http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1470439)
(http://www.n-scaler.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10010/normal_009.jpg)
And finally, here is a MEC caboose I started some weeks back, along with a proto link....
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=613770 (http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=613770)
(http://www.n-scaler.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10010/normal_kjhkyty.jpg)
Thanks for watching and have a great week....
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Lee, Do those sleeves include the end caps? I may just have to snag some.
Pud, sweet weathering. Looks great to me so it must be awesome for you.
Dave, 'Love that structure. Was cutting the brick not an option using the Silhouette? I like the punch card template idea, especially to capture that multi-colored brick some walls have, but how would you register them?
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(http://www.candida-yeast-problems.com/stuff/PRR SD45 2.jpg)
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I'm trying to get the end of my shelf module finished up. I need mucho more details on the little construction area.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6JNrSnjfPXQ/T4BRzhkHrrI/AAAAAAAAE5k/lzS4bGUQo58/s1024/IMG187.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ckmWuzYxjpo/T4BRz4UKxqI/AAAAAAAAE5k/jp7HycUKxIc/s1024/IMG190.jpg)
I'm also test fitting my new aBUTTments.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_VMM1d9GmYM/T3XxBjxGh2I/AAAAAAAAE1I/tSikD8DHwVw/s912/P3250255.JPG)
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Bryan,
they don't have the end caps, but I simply glued the end to a square piece of .040 styrene, then worked it down with a dremel and finished it with some 200 grit.
Easy peasy.
Lee
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So I order a couple X58s and get a dup number. Bummed some Laurel Valley decals from Lee and started to work on one car. After applying Solvaset the decapsm bleed and faded. Back to square one. Since the car look like crap I decided to not let a piece fo crap go to waste and distressed it some more. Couldn't find my closeup lens, so excuse the poorer quality of this shot.
(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa149/rkbufkin/003-3.jpg)
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Work continues on snowed #2. I have never built a laser cut structure before - and actually never worked with stripwood either - so it is definitely a learning experience...learning to make dyes, dye the wood, dry it so it doesn't curl, glue it, etc. Although the next snowshed (#1) is pretty much the same size, it is curved so getting the learning out of the way now should pay dividends then. Shed #1 has the advantage that it will be buried in snow so I can use that to hide some of the inevitable mistakes!
Here is the current status...still need to finished the front cribbing, add internal triangulation and the roof of course.
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44747&d=1333816994)
And here are some "in situ" shots just West of Coryell with pushers positioned for scale.
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44749&d=1333816994)
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44750&d=1333816994)
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44748&d=1333816994)
I also got some scenic details around Lemon creek and South Slocan done this week but no shots to show right now.
Have a great Easter everyone!
md
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Lee,
Thanks for the offer of the tubing. I checked my supplies and I am fresh out of chandelier sleeves. PM sent.
Bryan,
I could have scribed all of the bricks with the Silhouette, but I have a bunch of decent brick sheets lying around and thought I would use it for this project. It is a pretty large building with the long walls coming in at 4 x 8 inches. I really didn't want to lay out all of the bricks and then use all the time on the machine + blade wear and tear. As long as the end of the brick sheet is square to the patterns, it loads very well so that the scribes follow the mortar joints. As for the punch card stencil, I would use the cutter to lay everything out and then just line up the punches visually with the bricks.
Mark,
Very cool snow shed. I take it that you are modeling "spring". Are you going to include dirt, and rocks, and trees in the snow slide on the shed? Here in Alaska the slide deposits are very dirty come spring. Just a thought.
Michael,
Another very nice scene. Have you posted your track plan? I like the contrast between the main and the grass covered siding.
Best wishes, Dave
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Lee,
Mark,
Very cool snow shed. I take it that you are modeling "spring". Are you going to include dirt, and rocks, and trees in the snow slide on the shed? Here in Alaska the slide deposits are very dirty come spring. Just a thought.
thx Dave!
Actually the C&W is set in the "winter shoulder months" of 1970/1971 for a few reasons one of the main ones being to allow for a snow scene at the summit and an excuse for plow trains. I haven't tried to be specific or consistent across the entire layout. I tend to go with scenery that seems to suit the scene and looks ok. One of my main focuses is operations and the operators don’t' seem to notice any lack of season consistency...or at least no visitor has every mentioned it. I originally wanted to model late fall but the Kootenay mountains are awash in gold due to the Tamaracks at that time of year and, try as I might, I could not come up with a repeatable, easy to produce, and believable gold larch.
And yes the specific snoswhed shown here will have dead fall and rock on it just as the slopes above and below it do. The curved snowshed #1 covered in snow probably won't have too much as the photos I have seen of it in winter just show a clean, smooth blanket of snow several feet deep and I like that look in both the photos and on the mock up that is there now. There are snow covered rock and trees in the canyon below shed #1 however.
Thx for the feedback!
md
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Michael,
Another very nice scene. Have you posted your track plan? I like the contrast between the main and the grass covered siding.
Best wishes, Dave
Dave, here's a link to my trackplan... https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24174.0
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Work continues on snowed #2. I have never built a laser cut structure before - and actually never worked with stripwood either - so it is definitely a learning experience...learning to make dyes, dye the wood, dry it so it doesn't curl, glue it, etc. Although the next snowshed (#1) is pretty much the same size, it is curved so getting the learning out of the way now should pay dividends then. Shed #1 has the advantage that it will be buried in snow so I can use that to hide some of the inevitable mistakes!
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44748&d=1333816994)
I also got some scenic details around Lemon creek and South Slocan done this week but no shots to show right now.
Have a great Easter everyone!
md
Mark,
That's a beauty!!!!
Can I suggest that you light it up on the inside so when the roof is on we can still see your wonderful work!!
Jon
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Dave, here's a link to my trackplan... https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=24174.0
Thanks Michael. I had somehow missed that thread. You have posted some very nice photos of your work over the past couple of months, and I realized that I wasn't familiar with your plans. It looks like a very nice plan that is well executed.
Best wishes, Dave
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Thanks Michael. I had somehow missed that thread. You have posted some very nice photos of your work over the past couple of months, and I realized that I wasn't familiar with your plans. It looks like a very nice plan that is well executed.
Best wishes, Dave
Thank you Dave!
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(http://www.bbussey.net/rr/PortecPilot2.jpg)
This
could be a serious game changer. I had always planned autorack loading far back from the aisle deep in a corner to disguise the MT/ConCor weaknesses. At the very least a second loading area up close with these and a loading ramp and some foreground quality Nissan or Toyota models will have to be aisle side even if it has to be static, this would be just too cool to miss. Now, I may need to rethink everything track planning wise...
I love it when something comes along that is so nice, that it requires a fresh evaluation of every one of those long held beliefs. Thank You...
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Spent part of the weekend on pair of ConCor autoracks. Got some N Scanle of NV upgrade panels but I didn't get them exactly right installing them so weathered the hell out of them.
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44763&d=1333848543)
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44764&d=1333848550)
OK for a first try at serious weathering I guess. Still need to hit them with dull coat.
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A few more night moves...
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gr7ak_F0bKs/T4EeV9tWETI/AAAAAAAAQpQ/QtvCJ6Fe0oY/s735/cmblts41812.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aAE21xOv4pc/T4EfVvdfqtI/AAAAAAAAQpg/ljseLLjZBik/s735/cmblts41812+%282%29.jpg)
Lee
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BB, that autorack is NICE!
Mark - nice work also on the snow shed.
Landed back in Oz this morning after a short hop across the Pacific from Japan last night. Washing and unpacking today and hopefully into some train work tomorrow.
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another 3500pd repainted, decaled, added stirups, brakewheel, 905 couplers, blma trucks
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QqwnDIDlqx0/T4GHIzrXcJI/AAAAAAAAFFw/cEKgkcPGBdY/s800/DSCF1946.JPG)
Bob.
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Lots of groovy modeling this week: thanks for sharing!
Fun times at the Hiller Aviation Museum Planes n' Trains Spring Break extravaganza.
First time Free-moNing for me, so quite a learning experience!
Will write a bit more on that later, for now just posting some picts to show the general Free-moN sprawl:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dj2ECvS-eHM/T4EWtnz8f0I/AAAAAAAAFtI/SWRylHS9XRs/s640/P4062456.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nmZBur-vUSY/T4EWwkR0-uI/AAAAAAAAFtY/6B_OL-dr0yM/s640/P4062460.JPG)
[Yes, our one turnback loop is wrapped around a pole]
And, of course, a video!
(Only two minutes: Woot!)
A bit shaky as no tripod.
We'll be popping in to run trains and work on modules all week, so there should be a big difference (for better or worse) by Sunday.
Thanks for looking, and hope to see you there (like we saw John Sing today! Yeay!)
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another 3500pd repainted, decaled, added stirups, brakewheel, 905 couplers, blma trucks
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QqwnDIDlqx0/T4GHIzrXcJI/AAAAAAAAFFw/cEKgkcPGBdY/s800/DSCF1946.JPG)
Sweet! Needs the 100-ton trucks though, as the real ones ran on 125-ton trucks with 38" wheels.
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Sold my layout and collection this weekend and luckily he is a fan
of The SD&AE which the layout is based on and will continue the
blog. That is awesome. He drove over with a van from San Luis
Obispo.
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Got a little bit of track down at Fort St. John and was able to run some trains on the upper deck for the first time.
(http://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/img_48741.jpg)
(http://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/img_4876.jpg)
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Got a little bit of track down at Fort St. John and was able to run some trains on the upper deck for the first time.
Well done, Andy - looking forward to seeing it in person in two week's time. Are you able to run from the lower deck to the upper deck via the helix yet?
Tim
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Well done, Andy - looking forward to seeing it in person in two week's time. Are you able to run from the lower deck to the upper deck via the helix yet?
Tim
Yes. I can run from staging - over the bridge - through Taylor - up the helix and into Fort St John (well.. the first 3 feet of yard lead at least). Once i have a run-around loop installed at Fort St John I will be able to do some very basic switching.
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Really miss the Hiller mesuem. Pretty cool set up too MC!
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Yes. I can run from staging - over the bridge - through Taylor - up the helix and into Fort St John (well.. the first 3 feet of yard lead at least). Once i have a run-around loop installed at Fort St John I will be able to do some very basic switching.
In that case we need to run, film and photograph the first official train!
Tim
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Great modelling all. My only project right now is a CN Swoosh-noodle paint job. Not getting very far, I spent the weekend chopping wood, riding bikes and goofing off at the cabin. Love to get that loco done before the summer comes and modelling grinds to a halt :lol:
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More ballasting. More info on blog. http://genevasub.blogger.com (http://genevasub.blogger.com)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_LDMoXsAl8M/T4ITqO9xBSI/AAAAAAAAA2M/dtYpBnV9ekk/s912/040812a.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OiskKfskXqk/T4ITs9cLhvI/AAAAAAAAA2U/9Gc63xv6M3E/s912/040812b.jpg)
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Right now all my work is virtual--laying out the pavement for my Kankakee station module in CorelDraw:
(http://lordzox.com/mrr/2012/corel_roadwork.jpg)
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Mostly show prep stuff for me...table presentation, Power Points, some CRHS shill stuff. First show is this coming Saturday in Sanford, ME... so lots of stuff to do.
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Mike:
Sorry about your rough time of things latley. I hope it all works out for the best. You can always move to the East Coast and hang out with us asshats.
Bryan:
Can you fast track the autorack to production? I could use a few dozen.
This week I worked on a Japanese auto transporter:
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5453/6913313012_3b468fdd36_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/6913314560_280842db49_b.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6913315522_9fd851b622_b.jpg)
The model is made of etched nickel and measures 8'6" wide, 12'5" tall and about 40' long making it perfect for 1/160. This type of transport is used to move smaller batches of used cars from auctions to dealerships where TrainCat's model is mainly used for new car deliveries.
I still need to add details and paint some parts.
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Since is Z guyz have no weekend photo fun I thought I would post this here.This is the start of my Zeetown commercial district.To this point everything is scratchbuilt using For Sale signs bought at Wal Mart and Evergreen plastic shapes and siding.There is one more building to be scratched then some rework of the basr the store are setting on.
(http://boylerwerx.0catch.com/numbr5-c.jpg)
I enjoy taking this layout to shows and always change something on the layout between shows. :D I should be done by wednesday.Then I can dpend more time on the home N scale monster layout. (I keep talking myself out of downsizing the monster)
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Dan that transporter is beautiful .
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Bliggity Blog updated...
http://wmrywesternlines.blogspot.com/2012/04/living-in-modular-age.html
Sign up as a follower so as not to miss a moment ...
Lee
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Mike:
Sorry about your rough time of things latley. I hope it all works out for the best. You can always move to the East Coast and hang out with us asshats.
Bryan:
Can you fast track the autorack to production? I could use a few dozen.
This week I worked on a Japanese auto transporter:
...images removed...
The model is made of etched nickel and measures 8'6" wide, 12'5" tall and about 40' long making it perfect for 1/160. This type of transport is used to move smaller batches of used cars from auctions to dealerships where TrainCat's model is mainly used for new car deliveries.
I still need to add details and paint some parts.
Gotta link for the beastie? It looks like it would work in the late 60's early 70's....
The S.
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The kit was from a company called Pairhands. It was available from 1999.co.jp and Plazajapan, but no longer in production.
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This
could be a serious game changer. I had always planned autorack loading far back from the aisle deep in a corner to disguise the MT/ConCor weaknesses. At the very least a second loading area up close with these and a loading ramp and some foreground quality Nissan or Toyota models will have to be aisle side even if it has to be static, this would be just too cool to miss. Now, I may need to rethink everything track planning wise...
Can you fast track the autorack to production? I could use a few dozen.
I hadn't thought about offering the Portec tri-level auto rack for sale as it would be costly. Much more than the Red Caboose model, but I haven't compiled all the final costs yet. Both the RP core and the etched sheet are expensive because they are large. The tri-fold doors still require extra detail in the form of Evergreen rod and wire; 4" x 1/2" x 1/16" weights must be cut from steel bar stock that still must be procured; BLMA grab irons are required for the "ladders"; and formed staples are needed for the stirrups. But I certainly can advise what the total cost would be once I know for those who would still be interested in building one. Also, you definitely would need a bender for the brass wrapper. There are "fold" lines etched in the design, but a lot of the detail is intricate and it would be very difficult if not impossible to bend the wrapper by hand.
This model is based specifically on The Rock prototype that was acquired by Grand Trunk Western. I'm building two - one painted as a patched-out ex-Rock stenciled for GTW, and the other repainted in the standard all-blue GTW scheme.
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Bryan, I was thinking more in the lines of a RTR version. The MTL tri level underwhelms and i want some variety to my RC cars.
Costly, yes... worth it? I certainly would pay $40 a peice for some.
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Definitely not RTR. It would require a redesign of the core so it could be injection-molded plastic for that to happen, and I don't know if my Chinese contractor would be willing to mask/paint/bend the brass wrapper. The selling price would push the model beyond where it would be possible to see the ROE, let alone earn some profit.
A kit? Maybe. But even that it questionable due to the cost of the components. For a couple of personal models, I can write a magazine article and that would cover most if not all of my costs so I personally don't feel the hit. Sometimes it takes me a while to recoup due to trial-and-error on the model, but eventually I get it back.
For those who are adventurous, I could make extras. But I don't see how it would be feasible to offer this model at retail.
FYI, the Red Caboose auto racks are at $40 now. And I did write an article on lowering/adjusting the MTL rack a few years back so that the appearance is much better when next to the RC cars, and it doesn't require much effort.
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A little past the weekend but started fitting my Whait Tower to a DPM Hillltown Hotel. I also cut a door in the opposite side to become a Starbucks.
Need to file back the wall the WT sits in a little to bring teh front wall back in line with the window frame but it fits fairly well so far.
(http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/attachment.php?attachmentid=44788&d=1334004704)
"Oh Lord don't let me screw this up" :scared:
(Of course I did already but it still works. I WAS going to sacrifice the front window but leave the door to fit the original window frame but cut back the lower section anyway)
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Definitely not RTR. It would require a redesign of the core so it could be injection-molded plastic for that to happen, and I don't know if my Chinese contractor would be willing to mask/paint/bend the brass wrapper. The selling price would push the model beyond where it would be possible to see the ROE, let alone earn some profit.
A kit? Maybe. But even that it questionable due to the cost of the components. For a couple of personal models, I can write a magazine article and that would cover most if not all of my costs so I personally don't feel the hit. Sometimes it takes me a while to recoup due to trial-and-error on the model, but eventually I get it back.
For those who are adventurous, I could make extras. But I don't see how it would be feasible to offer this model at retail.
FYI, the Red Caboose auto racks are at $40 now. And I did write an article on lowering/adjusting the MTL rack a few years back so that the appearance is much better when next to the RC cars, and it doesn't require much effort.
Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.
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Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.
Big +1 there. While this specific car doesn't interest me, I love building craftsman kits, and would be willing to pay that price for them. Look at Traincat's work, for example.
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I'll have to see what the final component cost is once I get the model figured out and then see. I would also have to check with Red Caboose and see if they have extras of the brake ratchet part, since that is what I'm using on my two. I received a bunch of spare parts back when I was supplying them with photos regularly when the auto racks were first released, but I don't have enough for multiple kits. I still have to look into the steel or brass weight that sits in a depression of the bottom deck, and those would have to be cut to size as well. And the trucks/couplers would have to be the responsibility of the consumer if these things end up being made-to-order.
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Could always offer the kit for sale, but have the parts printed/etched as needed, or do a certain run amount like a craftsman kit. Like I've always said I'd wish there were more craftsman level kits in N like in HO when it comes to cars. If this kit was at $50-$70 and the detail quality matched it, I would not bat an eye in spending the money.
+1. That's a beautiful piece of work Bryan. By the way, why did you go with brass over stainless for the panels? Curling?
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Brass is easier to manipulate and less expensive, plus the non-etched panel areas of the stainless would have to be brush-polished to kill the chrome-like finish and come close to matching the half-etched areas. Brass holds paint better, especially since masking is required either way. I also don't have to be 100% precise on the bend angles because the metal is pliable and will conform to the frame angles. I will paint the wrapper after bending and before application to the frame, so it can be baked to lock the paint in. I'll admit the advantages of stainless are the extreme strength and rigidity (no worry about accidentally warping the part or damaging small details during assembly) and the natural color on the panels, but the brass advantages outweigh them in this circumstance.
I got the revised frames back. The XYZ measurements are now perfect and match the etched wrapper exactly, but I have two new issues to address from the last set of modifications made - the center sill still isn't low enough, and the wheel flanges just graze the bottom of the car. So back to the RP contractor for two more frames sometime next week.